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I have sprung mount. No wood. Just a bit of polyurethane incorporated in the spring mounts so they don't make too big a clunk if they ever have to function. Even that is not absolutely necessary. I generally associate wood insert along the length of the chassis with u-bolt attachment of...

the objective behind the objective of our drive from Aus to Europe was an Easter wedding in Blairgowrie. Noticeable difference between heating damp Scottish air and dry Mongolian air. We enjoyed the mountains as well as the wedding. One day I'll get round to adding an arduino to measure room...

the valved by-pass across the header tank is very useful. It really depends where you are and where you travel. In some climates its useful to bleed heat so the unit doesn't cycle - at one stage I had a fan driven radiator outside. I have a well insulated solid box not a fabric pop-top and no...

silly question - how will you know when the calorifier is up to temperature? (Hint - I have a temperature sensor on the hot out with copper connection but its still low until I run some water). the ThermoTop stops heating around 76 deg C, which would also then be the max temperature it could...

what's the problem you are trying to solve?

I believe the purpose of limp mode is to avoid damage or excessive pollution from a fault that doesn't totally disable the vehicle. It seems logical to expect the problem to be fixed rather than simply deleting the fault code. Easier said than done sometimes - last year's marathon example was a...

my 2005 FG649 in Aus has only one wire to the OBDII socket. The cables provided with this unit would seem to be inadequate for my vehicle. I've stopped looking after a couple of tries. The blink codes were sufficient the one occasion I needed codes. I occasionally think of making something to...

one of the problems I met with an early version of steps was movement of the truck on its suspension while stationery. My first attempt at steps was "telescopic" which used to compress a bit over several hours with lots of small movements. The drawer slide approach to mounting the top of the...

all the steps are parallel (top is not different), in the pic there is a slight lean downwards (it would be nice if the sandpaper stuff covered the edge). I always (except when there's a fence in the way) extend the steps to full and sometimes add something (wood at the extreme or just a bit of...

pics - steps down half folded, the slot, there's a spindle and a bearing that slides in the slot, the curved over bit is deep enough for steps to stay in place when down. Similar curved end to slot to locate steps when up. and folded away - there's a small bolt with a brass bush for the...

I have similar scissor step to Torklift. I added laser cut slots in 6mm steel plate to pivot the top and slide the folded steps into the space under the door. A couple of over centre latches to secure. It would be more complex, but doable, to fold them out from inside the door.

no, just standard open diff

while I'm here. I have Koni shock absorbers with parabolic springs and Aeon bumpstops. The shock absorbers have soft bounce and harsher rebound. The shock absorbers take another bit out of the harshness of hitting a bump. I used to have two spares hung off the back. Moving them (one to...

4.5 tonne Canter, weight evenly distributed front and rear. Ran Toyos on 19.5ATW rims at 30psi, occasionally down to 25psi, across more than 500km of Simpson Desert sand over more than a month. Felt I could have gone lower if necessary, but no need. Speed less than 50km/hr. There's load...

don't know if it helps with your OBD codes. May not be available on your model. On my 2005 Mitsubishi provided 2 wires which can be disconnected/reconnected in various combinations to provide blink codes to engine dashboard light, and, more importantly for you, provides for clearing all codes.

when I first fitted parabolics I noticed a vibration from front drive shaft above about 30km/hr. Unable to use 4wd for anything beyond getting past obstacles. There was noticeable play in the splines. I had the drive shaft rebuilt (local Hardy Spicer workshop), and lengthened. Problem solved.

does the exhaust retarder still slow the vehicle? It's possible adjusting it may have simply made symptoms disappear while possibly leaving an underlying problem undiagnosed

ah ..... as I envisaged it the pipe rotates about its vertical axis - I forgot that you will have a slide on in the way .... alternative is a straight arm that pivots about where you've drawn your pivot and a "gin pole" with winch on opposite side of vehicle.

a thick walled 40-50mm OD pipe, anchored vertically at base so it can rotate, bent (find a CNC pipe bending machine) to the curve of the wheel so the end is about 100mm above top centre of tyre, a pulley in the end of the pipe. A brake winch (easy to wind but stops when winder released) aligned...

any radiator water loss?