OK - I gotta ask -- what are your thoughts on more poop in the Red Machine? Nitrous Oxide? Engine change? Gas turbine? Coal fired steam boiler & engine?
Even though Mercedes swears that their "new" engines are great, I still keep hearing mixed comments from users, with more unhappy folks than...
When I bought mine, I paid extra to buy a Reconditioned unit. All the fluids & filters were changed, new batteries, new AC compressor, new air compressor, and everything checked out to be certain it all worked correctly. If you buy one as-is, think about changing every fluid as soon as possible...
Another thing to look for is a 120 volt standby air conditioner. I'm seeing them more and more frequently, so you might be able to find one as a bonus. The standby units are powered from a 30 amp 120 volt connector (identical to a camper or a boat connector) mounted on the body. When the unit is...
As has already been said somewhere on the ambulance threads, check out the steering carefully, particularly the tie rod ends. Mileage is also important, but do you look for a low mileage unit (maybe lots of city driving?), or a higher mileage unit (highway driving?). There are arguments both...
Plenty high. I had thought about using a roof top unit on mine, but I'm 9-6 right now, and my garage door can clear 9-11, so I don't have any room to spare. I'm building a modified Hoseline 120 volt package for mine.
The shelters were based on shelters used in WWII, so their designs were probably some of the first military products to use foam insulation. Considering that earlier versions used fiberglass insulation, they were definitely an innovation.
The military wasn't reaching for superior design, but...
The S-250 panels are built a bit like a refrigerator. There is a thin outer skin (about 1/32"), then foam filling around some internal "C" channel frame elements, then another layer of 1/32" aluminum. Where the interior skin meets the channel framing, there is a 1/8" thick piece of wood between...
It sounds like you may have an electrical problem, or else you msy need a bit of Freon R134A added to the truck's AC systems. The most common cause of no AC is low refrigerant. There are pressure switches that will shut down the system if it's low, but measuring the suction pressure with the...
If you have to repair dash pieces, try UV cure adhesives. I've used them to cement a wide variety of different plastics successfully. I've also used them to "clamp" parts that have been epoxy bonded while I'm waiting for the epoxy to cure
I have remote control, heated Moto-Mirrors on mine. I recall they were made by Bostrom (the sest company). I'll bet that the standard ambulance prep by Freightliner when yours was built in cluded pre-wiring for heated mirrors. If the buyer was in the South, heated mirrors probably were never...
Your ambulance probably had a relay panel that did the actual switching. You don't need the same panel the manufacturer used - you can do the same with standard automotive relays. If you want to interlock circuits, all you need are some diodes.
Remember the KISS rule! (Keep It Simple)
Good advice! At the same time, concentrate on what you need to save, and remove what you absolutely know you'll never need. You may want to keep the scene lights, but you know probably won't want the warning lights. You also probably don't want the suction pump, oxygen monitoring equipment, and...
Instead of trying to revive the vehicle as an ambulance, it would probably be a lot easier to build it out as an RV instead. One advantage is that wiring in an ambulance is labeled every foot or so with what it does, so once you see enough wiring you can figure it out a lot easier. Generally...
Because you don't want to use it as an ambulance, you have many options that you can go with, but unfortunately, you're going to have to start from -0-. Setting it up as an RV is a lot easier - example, you don't need warning lights.
Scene lights can be handy, except your ambulance probably...
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