UPDATE CONTINUED
I used epoxy thickened with fumed silica as a thin past to attach the foam to the bottom sheet of ply and to the frame. And also to attach a top sheet of 5mm plywood. Then I coated all the seems where the 5mm plywood meets the walls in epoxy, chopped strand past and covered...
UPDATE
The permanent structure of the camper is done!
If you remember from my last update, I am basically just building the camper from the bottom up, so the next step was to build this big sheet of 3/8ths inch plywood that was to be my countertops and the bottom of my cabover. I put it...
UPDATE CONTINUED
The passenger side wall was also built with the same process and designed around the wheel well.
The rest of the walls will separate the internal space of the camper into different storage areas. These are made of a single sheet of 5mm plywood and minimal 1x2 framing with no...
UPDATE
I've got all of my lower walls done!
I started with the forward wall, the one right behind the cab. It is a 1x2 Douglas fir frame skinned in 5mm plywood and filled with 2# pour foam.
The excess foam was cut off and the forward edges were routed to give them a 1" radius curve.
I...
UPDATE CONTINUED
For another look at the process I used to build and mount the floor you can watch this video I made to explain how I approached it.
Hopefully between the write up and the video I managed to answer most questions, but obviously feel free to ask about anything I missed.
UPDATE CONTINUED
The bottom side was a similar process but with the added difficulty of working around the mounting hardware. I really took my time filling in any gap around the mounts and letting the resin soak into the wood and filling it in again before moving onto the fiberglass.
The...
UPDATE
I've completed the camper floor!
It is a composite panel consisting of a wood frame skinned with plywood filled with polyurethane pour foam and coated in fiberglass and epoxy resin.
The plywood skin is 15/32" 5ply underlayment. It's a bit heavy, but I wanted to make sure the floor was...
For those of you that own a pop-up camper:
What is the height of the opening for your camper door?
What is the make/model?
How tall are you?
How difficult/ annoying is it to get in and out repeatedly when you are actually using the thing?
I checked out a couple FWC offerings in person and am...
I am doing the larger sections in a series of pours. I think it helps with the pressure build up as you say, but the foam still easily exerts enough pressure to bend the 5mm ply I'm using, so lots of clamping is necessary. I'm still toying with different strategies and making things up as I go...
Thanks Alloy.
The inconsistency is concerning. The cell size in the center of the pour closely resembled the cell size of the foam when it is allowed to free rise (free expand).
I went back and looked at the data sheet again for the total boat pour foam. It has a density of 2.1 pcf foot when...
I watched the video. It's well done and I definitely agree that it would not be appropriate for that application. Much bigger voids with un known blockages. It makes way more sense to follow his advise and open up the walls to update all the electrical and plumbing while you're at it. One major...
UPDATE
I tested pour foam as a core material for composite panel construction. Really I was testing my ability to use it. The pour foam I used is 2 lbs density floatation foam from Totalboat: https://amzn.to/3lKDlcu
The numbers look pretty good compared to the XPS board I was planning on using...
I strongly considered a Dodge with a Cummins, but they only came in the full size trucks (~7 inches wider than T100) and the older ones that I could potentially afford have a horrible turning radius (4 more feet than the T100 if I remember correctly). With the number of times we struggled to get...
Thanks. I checked in with Fiberglass Hawaii in Ventura. They normally carry lots of different foams for surfboard and boat building, but they only had PU blanks. Everything else was out of stock indefinitely.
I tried out some small panels with the pour foam and am feeling pretty good about it...
UPDATE
Well, it's been slow going, but I managed to put a little time in on the build.
I decided to reroute the exhaust while I had easy access. The old exhaust was in poor shape and I wanted to have it dump in front of the rear tire to open up more room for potential storage ideas and ground...
I'll have to take it on and off the truck a couple times during the build, but I'm not anticipating needing to remove it often after that, so I can deal with PITA, but doable.
I was thinking about this too. Mine will be easily unbolted, but removing/reinstalling it will be a pain. I think I have room near the front mounts to slide a piece of 1x2 steel between the truck and the subframe, so the idea is to get a heavy piece of 1x2 long enough to stick out well past the...
Have you attempted to measure the amount of flex in your frame? how much twist over what length of the frame?
I tried to get a thread started a while back to collect this information, but not many had it or wanted to share it I guess.
I attempted a flex test on my truck by jacking the divers...
I was back and forth on doing the boxes and bumper before the camper, but decided to do the camper first. I may regret this later, but shouldn't be a big deal
UPDATE
I have completed the subframe!
As planned, it is constructed of 1x2 steel, rectangular tubing. A mix of 16g and 1/8 inch wall thickness.
It is bolted to the 6 stock bed mounts with grade 8, 1/2 inch bolts. The plan is to attach the camper to the subframe with ten 3/8 inch bolts and a...
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