Maybe this will help with what I was trying to say. My first attempt after reading endless post about things being parallel it looked basically like your photo and had bump steer. Extended the pitman arm to make the pivot points parallel instead of the actual bars and it now has zero bump steer...
Extend the arm from your gear box to the steering drag link. Because it's a van you can't just get the pitman arm from a truck that drops. It's at a downward angle so by making it longer you bring the pivot point lower. Hard to tell exactly by photos but that's the one part I got hung up on when...
That's the one. Welded to the seat base and bolted to the floor. Not a dot seat base but I feel it's plenty safe.
It also doesn't have the inner tube to run the wires for the heated seat and airbag. Easy to unplug the wires to swivel and in any case mine has the passenger side airbag delete and...
V4 question. How is the hydro assist on the street? I have yet to come across a half decent review on the street behavior side of it.
I have read about some twitchiness but am not really sure what they mean by that. If that describes great turn in like your focus RS or my focus svt then I'm...
Valid points, on the other hand the seat belt should have been attached to the roll cage or at least the body. Not the seat.. I guess it was the 80s though so it kinda makes sense for back then.
Amazon flat swivel base, says i it's not for automotive use but I installed it on the passenger seat to retain what I suppose is called the under seat glove box. From what I can tell it's stronger then the bolts going into the floor so I feel it's plenty safe. Probably gives an inch or so of...
Amazon, it's a tar tape looking product. Very hard to mess it up.
MWUR9
4.3 out of 5 stars 299Reviews
3M 08610 Window-Weld 1/4" x 15' Round Ribbon Sealer Kit
Style:
Kit
Size:
1/4 in x 15 ft
Ford expedition seats, cheap, leather, power, heated, arm rest, correct colors, pockets on the back. Not a direct bolt in, drivers side needs 2 inches sectioned out of the van seat base. Passenger side needs holes redrilled.
I have had the windows out twice, first time the passenger side had a bind, second time the drivers side has a bind. The adjustment in the tracks seems to be a skill I don't have but I'm pretty sure that's the key to getting them to work smoothly.
Two 1/4" rivets hold the glass to the lift mechanism, can get to them with the window about half way down once the door panel is off. Still have to pull the weather stripping out.
Do you have more details on the leaf pack change? I have been thinking about doing the same thing for a while but have not gotten around to looking into it.
They plug is too clean to not go to something....
I think white smoke means no fuel, mine did that when the in tank filters plugged up. Part of the reason I tossed the factory system.
Could be just me but I could never get the up pipes sealed after removal, new pipes, new seals, still leaked...
I should edit my response, they ask who the builder was and I said I would get back to them. That was 3 years ago so I think once you get past the initial person filling in the blanks on there screen nobody really cares what it is. I have also not had to use my insurance to prove what exactly...
Call progressive, they ask for nothing from me and it's insured as a 1998 Ford class b. They also allowed stated value. It did all seem way to easy so I'm not sure my case is normal. It's still registered as a e350 through DMV.
At a loss for what it's called or what it does but there's a line from the exhaust to somewhere around the thermostat, is a hard line that can plug up. Should be easy to get to at this point and make sure it's not getting packed full.
Maybe someone else can chime in with more details.
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