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All the good points you made about the fuel system hold true, throw all the factory stuff in the trash. As for the cost mine was under $150 to build, was already a electric pump though. All very cheap stuff at a hydraulic supply shop. Your duel tank system should not know the difference so it...

I think it's technically called a full regulated return system, plenty of info and kits for the trucks, it's just much easier on the van with access to the rear of the engine. Factory is some kind of half return system that they made work by adding a larger injector at the end of the fuel rail.

I made it so I could be off on the name, filter and regulator are mounted on the frame, both fuel rails now exit down the bell housing to the regulator. It fixes the dry injector problem with the factory setup, I think #8.

If it's not too late consider a regulated fuel return, I think mine was around $150 to make. You can run the returns down the bell housing. Could probably dig up some photos of you need. If you have all the old stuff out just look at it for a minute and I'm pretty sure you will agree that it's...

There's a rpm wire from the ECU but the the one in the engine bay next to the brake booster is very easy to get to. The ambulance or idle control harness is on the inside next to the parking brake, never tested the wires but just plugged in the control box and it all worked fine. The 7.3 also...

It's a 98, also put the ambulance pack in it that was a direct plug in. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure the wiring is the same for all mid 90s through 04. To clarify on the dash it is not a direct plug in but also not hard to rewire the plugs to make it all work.

Put a 7.3 truck dash in and tied into the firewall wire you mentioned, next to the brake booster. Works fine, should be the same on yours.

Can you post a photo of the radius arm mount? I probably over built mine but was a little shocked at how weak the factory f350 mounts are.

It's an extra $240 for tags in Oregon to become a RV. Any advice on getting a permit for a heavy vehicle that's not a RV?

I did the RV insurance, will look into RV registration. I'm pretty sure a stock f350 diesel is over the 3 ton weight limit RV or not.

As I read things vehicles up to 3 tons can get the trip permits, I'm close to 5. Any input on what needs to be done for larger rigs? 4 tons dry, about 5 loaded.

Unless mine is different they are a direct plug in, manual window doors will accept all the hardware. Ground out 2 wires in the passenger taillight harness for the drivers door lock switch to work and then give up on the passenger door lock switch. Amazon has keyless at that point for $12 that...

On the 7.3 for cruise control you just need to change the steering wheel and cross 2 wires by your brake booster. Should also be fully weird for power windows and locks, Just find junk yard power doors and bolt in the parts. Did my 99 that way with no problems, 97 should be the exact same.

Is there an exact link to where the vents can be found? I came to the same conclusion that they look the best but can't find a good price Also does anyone have input on what the factory 7.3 air box is worth?

I mention of a charge wire, can that be used to top off a small house battery? Or at least a 12 volt cig port in the rear section?

Yes, I refer to the factory wiring. Trip as in trigger the relays , not sure how that sounds gangsta... And yes you need a fuse and two relays as in a bank of relays. Old vans have a bracket you can use to mount 4 Bosch Factory relays to the drivers side fender, I'm using 3 of them high...

The wiring is trash, do a bank of relays. Huge improvement for basically no cost. Trip relays with headlight switch and pull power straight from the battery