I would probably have backed the pinion out a little to get the drive side closer. It's more important than the coast side. But who knows, maybe under load it will move out enough to center up.
Set it loose, measure endplay with dial indicator. Set shimpack for desired pre-load. I don't get to hung up on rotational torque, pre-load is what keeps them from moving around. Especially with used bearings.
Correct, at ride hieght your spring rate will still be the same regarless of bag size or ping tank size. The tanks will do nothing for your fire road ride, that is all in the shocks.
I would run 1350's front and rear if at all possible. They will see the same loads at times. Need to back out of a ditch? That 1310 is going to hate life.
I wouldn't sweat a couple degrees on the pinion Joint. It will be enough to move the rollers around and keep them lubed. It will also help prevent brinelling.
I am unsure about using copper tube in a structural capacity. Especially the crap that home depot sells.
Maybe bite the bullet and buy some 6061 pipe from MMC?
Yes, you should change them. If you don't use your welder that often, your wire will start to rust (even in the high desert). Rusty wire is the death of liners. I have to replace mine almost yearly.
Also, those little clip on felt wiper deals will help keep the liner clean. Or paper clip and...
I feel your pain, there is no way I'm going junk yard hunting in Missouri in the summer. No matter how big the discount. Save that for the fall/winter. It's actually easier in the winter, stuff rolls/slides better on frozen ground. And the lack of blood sucking bugs........
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