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depending on the battery chemistry yeah sometimes, I get a good 20A out of my fixed panel while driving and that seems fine for me.. I dont really need charge while driving but it is super nice to cook while driving, figured out how to secure a crockpot for road travel.. with LFP and no fixed...

the Victron Orion is their DC to DC charger, the size of that would be decided by whats appropriate for your wiring and length, most OEM wiring would be around 10-15A I suspect.. consult your manufacturer and see if they have a max output rating for the trailer plug 12v+ source and stay under...

did you want DC alternator charging?

just your money your wasting.. unless your planning to grow into it later and just trying to buy & cry once, its moot to oversize the solar output capabilities. however that being said there is another philosophy of over paneling, which depending on situation and bank and needs has very good...

output side, it'll swing between ~12-14v depending on the bank's SOC, so splitting it down middle at 13 is reasonable.. especially for a LFP setup. The way the Victron solar models are setup is: Max Input Voltage/Max Output Amperage.. so a 75/10 will take solar panels wired up to 75V, and...

by how much solar you intend on hooking up to em.. Watts / Volts (13) = Amps.. you can over panel Victrons too, and solar panels almost never ever output their full laboratory ratings in the real world.. so don't sweat paying $100 more if your a few amps over, like if your 24A, just buy a 20A...

let em all rest for 24h w/out a charge and check voltage again..

congratulations, is there any particular reason you replied to a 2 year old dead thread with nothing to contribute?

another thing, putting up the beds is not that much effort.. especially if your doing it temporarily because you wanna sit under the awning.. just zip and lift, or yank the mattress to the floor and lift.. you dont gotta go through all the trouble of packing and folding it up all nicely for...

on the VW/Audi's we can use ross tech vcds to re-code all the modules to support the diff/tc can modules, Ive found em all just browsing around.. Porsche uses its own software for interfacing w/the can bus and reconfiguring em.. Ive never used it so I dont know its capabilities and limitations...

you dont have to fold the sides down, the room they take internally is minimal.. for true winter camping I just leave the beds up and sleep on cots in cargo hold.. having an awning over your bed is super duper nice and keeps at least that bunk nice and cool.. and the bunks let far more light and...

a family with 2 kids, is there really any other choice? 2 tip outs.. the thing becomes wider than it is long, its dramatic how much more room they give. an A-Liner was the first on my list, but my wife asked me where our 120lb Pyrenees was gonna sleep and that was the end of the Aliner as an...

Solar gets wired into its own charger controller, your converter cant handle it.. you have a solar charger, thats hooked directly to the battery bank.. look at Victron SmartSolar, huge bang for your buck. The sweet spot for leaded solar is 200W per 100AH, about ~15A ideally but more likely...

yes, with a LFP bank the reason you want something like Victron over RedArc is because you can set all the custom voltages you want.. I have all my chargers feeding 14.2V to charge, and I have a BatteryProtect wired up to the relay on my BMV-712, once the calculated SOC drops below 20% it drops...

yes, LFP is the opposite.. it'll last longer if its not persistently fully charged.. storing em long term at 40-60% SOC increases lifespan.. If you left a lead battery at that SOC over the winter, it'd be useless come spring. my LFP I have set to 14.2v maximum, my manufacturer recommends...

As close as you can reasonably get it, you want voltage drop minimal.. like less than 0.1v, if your battery needs 14.4v to get full, 14.3v won't get it there. The trick to keeping lead bank happy and healthy is giving it a full, complete charge to 100% SOC as much as you can.. chronically...

their Orion DC/DC charger does not have that routine, its simpler or stupider in that regard.. nor does it really need it, thats a feature to extend battery life on full time fixed solar setups that are cycling to various rates of discharge daily and rarely using other sources.. for a DC charger...

ah I see, so its the center diff stepper motor you won't be able to lock w/out engaging low range then.. if you keep that unlocked we'll be able to lock the rears.. sweet, yeah so the TDI's always got the same ratios on diffs.. I found a rear TDI diff from an earlier year when you could still...

with multiple Parallel Victron SmartSolar's they can get a little wonky, but mostly from being too smart for their own good.. they measure the resting voltage when the panel wakes up and uses it as a factor in determining how long to absorb before going to float.. if one SmartSolar awakens...

here's the missing piece of that image: "This cam has a curved inner track that moves a pin, which in turn moves the shifter rail and shift fork..", I believe the locking position on this track is AFTER the shift fork has switched to low range, and thats what would require custom machining to...