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Generator is Shore power, Shore power is Generator.. they are interchangable, your clearly never going to be using em both at the same time.. and its moot w/shore power because you dont really need to recharge in 2.5h unless your recharging your giant truck at an EV charging station, if you do...

love my BMV-712, not a single complaint.. the nicest and most accurate battery monitor Ive ever used personally... poor reviews for lack of support sounds an awful lot like PEBCAK, and you cant expect victron to fix that.

LFP puts the generator back on the table IMO.. I know most everyone is adverse to em, but some simple math compared to FLA.. no matter the size of your FLA bank going from 50% to 100% is a 6-7h endeavour at maximum charge rate.. its 2.5h for LFP at maximum charge rate to go from 5% to 100%, so...

You have a disconnect here, I'm not talking about replacing your Solar Panels w/a Onan Onboard genset.. You keep your solar panels on the roof and instead of using your drive engine as a backup charge source you use your genset, you can still use your drive engine when driving, but when your...

the genset is just backup for when solar dont cut it, I think last year I had a total of 4h on my genset.. but I didnt use my AirCon once... when I use it, it goes up considerably because solar powered air conditioning is superbly ambitious.. I'm thinking of making mine a tri-fuel because I...

if you want your shipping container cooled so its not 130F inside as you cross the american south west sure, but a genset is still an economical backup over a big engine.. especially if long runtimes to recharge or keep you from getting swamp ass in your sleep are in the cards.. might be hard to...

If the DC charger takes a input signal to turn on/off, like many do so they can be switched w/ignition or manually.. it would just be wiring up a relay within the AC so when it kicks the compressor on you can get a signal to that DC charger and the AC will just automatically run off the engine...

more or less, there's gonna be the conversion losses of the inverter, ~10% is +4.5A all on its own.. plus other potential areas for losses, your pushing it.. you could perhaps have a couple DC chargers inline and only turn on the parallel ones when you need the amp boost because of AC? hrmm...

dont need to when you program the memory w/Chirp.. it can connect to the repeater database and populate your memory banks automatically with no manual entry.. Ive got every single one in Colorado & Utah programmed into mine. This gave me 713 Entries:

Either the charger has a fixed current output that needs to be at or under your max desired charge rate, or it needs to be programmable to limit that current.. Victron's SmartSolar's can program the current rate you want them to max output, but the Orion DC-DC chargers you cannot.. you get those...

Your going to need to limit your DC charging off engine at 0.4C of your LFP size, so for 2 100AH 12v BB's in a series thats 40A charge rate @ 24v.. if you go with 4 batteries, its 80A charge rate @ 24v.. you can parallel most DC chargers just fine if you need more, I know Victron's Orion DC...

in my experience with most power conversion schemes it seems like most of the time 80% is the sweet spot in efficiency, if you look at most spec sheets for power supplies of various types the vast majority of em seem to hit their peak efficiency ratings, which is what they of course advertise...

it sounds like your not expecting any constant low wattage AC loads, so you can forgo a smaller inverter out the gate.. might keep it in your head tho down the road, mebe you get an e-bike or you use a bunch of battery powered tools and always have a pack getting charged up at 100W.. you dont...

almost all electronics run off DC internally, Ive converted many "AC" house appliances to DC by simply reading the specs on the power bricks and giving em the same.. If your laptop says it wants like 18v @ 3A, just go get a 24v to 18v dc converter rated for like at least 3A and put the same plug...

Your inverter loads should be minimal IMO, all your lights/pumps/cellphone chargers should be direct DC.. Laptop Chargers and TV's that are DC are silly expensive, many people run those off small inverters.. but now that USB-C charging for laptop is the standard I'd suggest a high wattage USB-C...

Victrons fancy controllers like Venus or CCGX have support for Engine Start/Stop: https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring they can be configured to start an engine once the SOC reaches a pre-defined threshold, and then stop it once the bank is full.. the trick is going to...

Lead based batteries (FLA/AGM/Gel/etc) are all subject to Peukert's law: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peukert's_law that basically states the bigger the load, the less capacity you have.. Starter Batteries are obviously designed to output high amps, Deep Cycle batteries not so much.. but even...

lol I got a lil acronym happy there did'nt I.. Verk has the correct decoder ring. EasySolar is a bunch of their standalone components pre-wired into a larger chassis, its still modular as far as component replacement/upgrade.. but Victron neglects 60Hz 120v power sources, they barely support...

Ive got a Blue ARB from ~2013 and an Engel 80qt from 2017, I like the engel more, metal is better than plastic IMO but the ARB's nice with its interior light.. both are good fridges, I dont like the LVD in the ARB.. I'd rather use an external system wide LVD I have control over than have my...

Thats a feature on my Kenwood to mirror TNC IO to serial, but in order for it to work both ways I have to disable the built in TNC.. but technically you could accomplish it physically just cutting the tx line on the bluetooth module.. it would make APRSDroid Read only, it'd be unable to transmit.