Search results

i think its still tandem, but rumor is the slide out kitchen was nixed.. if they made it a single dexter torsion axle it would be overloaded hauling toys

Rigid panels are worth the weight, speaking of which.. damn how much solar are you putting up there? I've got 650W of solar and its not even close 50kg.. more like 36kg. Flexible Panels are pure and total trash, DO NOT BUY THEM.. they will fail, and it will be very soon.. if you glue em to your...

they sell gussets specifically for putting a RTT on top, dunno why it'd be any issue at all.. https://shop.intechtrailers.com/shop/flyer/flyer-roof-rack-gussets/ If yeh really wanted some weight up there it'd be pretty easy to just add some steel angle ontop of the aluminum tube to make it like...

I had an uneven surface on the top of my lil car camping trailer I tried to strap a flexible panel onto.. it was foobar within 2 years, whole thing fell apart like the cheap piece of crap it was.. Rigid or save your damn money.

those inverters only run at 48v to keep the amps down, and LFP dont really self regulate amperage output like a lead battery will, they can go into the danger zone and dump far more than is considered safe for them.. and as far as I can tell that welder has no current control, its just full...

I'm not sure a lithium BMS would appriceate running a DC welder directly off the battery..

Higher Voltage with bigger systems is ALMOST always worth the trouble, however if you've already got a 24v truck, doing lithium, 2kw of solar, and expect rather frugal energy needs there is a strong argument for stopping at 24v and just building from there on out.. 12v loads can be on their own...

yeah assuming no inverter directly wired to battery with this as the primary OCPD, as most larger inverters instruct you to wire em up.. those might have internal fuses but thats even less field servicable.. alloy's 300A fuse on a 3000VA inverter seems to be too small IMO and not surprised he's...

thats a pretty slick setup Alloy.. alot nicer quality than most mobile breaker setups I've seen.. However, even w/BluSea there's a significant performance difference between their breakers and fuses. here's a 200A BlueSea Fuse, blowing 600% at 0.10s, with a lower limit of 0.01s Here's a...

most DC circuit breakers are total garbage I'd say the chances are higher your breaker will fail and you wont have a replacement readily available than a fuse, plus fuses are cheaper to carry spares than breakers.

If you dont have any loads expected to reach near 100A then that would be fine.. you also have to account for multiple things running.. one simple way would be to add together all the fuses in your circuit box and ensure that your main battery fuse is larger than the sum of those.. I've got a...

in a pinch the terminal block can be removed entirely whereas an ANL block spliced in not so much unless you are wise enough leave your self enough slack to bridge the gap, presuming you cant get any fuses and have rectified the situation.. but really your master battery fuse should never really...

I use the bluesea terminal block my self, great design and hard to beat IMO..

you should have a master fuse on the battery post rated large enough none of your normal loads would not trip it, but not larger than the wiring is capable of providing between your battery and your fuse box... you could wire your solar charger up to the fuse box if yeh want and its close to the...

I dont see why it wouldent fit.. would be too high off the ground for my discover but probably not on an explore.

Go on a trip to buy more ice, or shell out $500+ for an electric fridge.. pick one, either the avoided hassle and expense is worth a fridge, or we're all dumb yuppies who cant go fetch more ice.. there's really no middle ground here.. If all of us could sprinkle some magic crystals into our...

nope, it should be pre-wired for the air vent w/12VDC, but there wont be a fuse in the holder for that line.. should be pretty easy to figure out what circuit it is.

Ayup, if I'm up on jackstands, at least one wheel is off.. and that wheel is shoved under the subframe as a redundancy if a jack stand were to fail.. I figure its bigger than my head, and cant really be tipped over if the vehicle is moving a couple feet in some random direction after a stand...

think ud need to be locked up for that, but traction boards could pop yeh right out of most stuff w/open diffs.

Got the webasto installed and working, no big problems with the retrofit, was a super fun project.. its configured to automatically come on to assist engine warm up under 41F and can be activated manually or through a pre-defined timer through infotainment system for heating.. I'm going to add...