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ah crap.. my bad, sorry.. I meant to say its pretty typical tho for $50-100k rock crawlers.. since the guy your paying to build it isnt gonna have one turn key ready to go.. and thats what the defender was built for right? if it cant conquer moab w/a base model then why the ******** is anyone...

pretty typical for luxury vehicles, if you want something specific just go order one.. your gonna have to do that with every auto manufacturer now days if you just want a vehicle thats not on the monochrome color palette.. If your buying new who gives a crap, its 2nd owners like me that gotta go...

reminds me when Grand Tour did episode on European SUV's, one segment they tried to offroad up a grassy hill on street tires.. they were all rubbish and struggling on wet grass, but it must be the vehicle's fault it could not compensate for wearing the equivalent of flip flop footwear while...

Your solar charger should be near the battery, not near the solar panel.. if you got one attached to the panel take it off and wire it up next to the battery.. you'll have less losses if you run any length of cable on the high voltage (solar panel) side. If you put your solar charger near the...

sounds like the battery might be done for, whats its resting voltage after a few hours disconnected from charge/load?

they make smaller portable setups w/USB outputs for charging phones/banks.. but considering most USB-A taps out at ~12W hooking a 100W panel up to that is rather huge unless your hooking it up to a USB-C output to fast charge a large PD capable bank.. then it would work rather good in all kinds...

tin both wires really well w/solder.. butt em together, rake the iron back and forth until the solder reflows em into one solid connection and then cover it in marine grade shrink wrap that has glue inside for a good seal, and ensure the wiring is secure so the rigid splice is not subject to...

whatever your battery manufacturer specifies, usually AGM is ~14.6v

since your depending so heavy on the engine to charge I would use a DC charger in this case, when its your primary charge supply its important you get your battery fully charged and thats often really hard to do in a trailer with the voltage drop and extended driving time required.. most people...

at least be prepared to change yer diff fluid if you end up limping out on a smaller size tire.. but personally I'd of hard stopped at the max size spare I coulda carried.

Yeah thats what he has and I read the manual for that and it has no indication it will output USB power w/out a battery hooked up.. Infact it has a fault state for too low voltage on battery, so I'm betting he wires it up w/nothing on battery terminals its just gonna sit there in a fault state...

any photos of your rig? mebe some sort of support that lifts it over your RTT and hinges out of the way really easy.. otherwise your looking at a DC-DC charger back in the trailer to keep voltage from sagging and boosting how much charge it can give.. you could go up to ~10A DC-DC charger off...

a robust setup would be a fixed solar panel on your trailer, at least 100W if your going to do it, build for at least 200W expansion ability.. when driving in good sun the solar panel would likely double your charge output and give you a good comfortable hassle free setup like you are used too...

yeah SmartGauge is ************ at its SOC% accuracy, but its also nice to know how much wattage your using, or how much charge your getting and how much energy you consume per day/hour/week/etc and in what conditions. as all those variables become known factors it becomes much easier to plan ahead...

I use a D710G Kenwood Radio on my vehicle and primary use APRS Packet Radio, the speaker under the dash can be unplugged and I plug in an external speaker I setup on the roof rack.. I added onboard 120VAC charger this off season with the intent to plug it into my trailer off an extension cord...

What OP needs is a paged alert someone back in office can hit when they need to summon you.. have a special email that auto forwards to your phone sms, and either a satellite based SMS or APRS SMSGTE, or all of the above. When you get paged, you simply hop in your vehicle and either drive to...

A permanently installed shunt on your house battery that measures current in and out is a worthwhile addon, I use a Victron BMV-712 and its chocked full of great information.. dunno how I got by so long w/out one.

That controller is designed to charge a 12v or 24v battery on the battery terminals, the USB ports are just a 5v regulator output for USB devices.. I highly doubt that thing will do anything if you dont hook it up to a battery.

yeah no this is very unlikely to work.. solar chargers wont power devices directly, it needs a battery to charge. You need a battery bank that can take a solar input or the direct output of the solar controller.. Hook the Renogy 100W panel up to your vehicle with a solar charger, recharge the...

The Smart Orion TR is adjustable w/Bluetooth App AFIK, download the app and load up a demo unit and verify.. The non smart units are just 1 stage constant voltage output IIRC, you mentioned nothing about getting a smart unit in your original post.