Overload Protection type : Hiccup mode, recovers automatically after fault condition is removed
thats not good, will he overload his trailer plug with this thing?..
yeah out the box its proab set for 12.00v, so its not gonna charge squat until you up the voltage manually.. I'd set it to whatever your shore charger is set for its Constant Voltage output in absorb, or if battery specs list a CCV voltage then use that.. unregulated like that I wouldent set it...
I dont think he's running the orion, looks like he's trying to use this DC PSU as the buck to give his battery a 14.4v charge through his trailer wiring.. your DC/DC is just this PSU right @TantoTrailers you dont have a smart regulator on it?
I think its too low a voltage to run through the...
that psu can be adjusted to 16v output, just adjust the pot.. https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/SD-100/SD-100-SPEC.PDF
are you charging it directly with the power supply? It would have to be higher than the battery's voltage to charge it.. you'd have to grab a multimeter and set it to 14.4v...
for a jump it would be fine, for a main starter battery.. deep cycles are poorly suited for big surges of high output until you start chaining more of em together.. worst case you soak your starter battery for a while and they split the load.
Victron SmartSolar 75/15, with the panels of your choice.. there is very little to differentiate 12v rigid panels, general rule of thumb is the more efficient the panel the smaller/lighter it will be for a given wattage.. you wanting a briefcase panel w/a case or something? mebe this...
oh since you installed a new battery and its all wired up, go through and reset the historical logging on the BMV.. think you can only do it through the panel interface.. its in the manual, but it resets min/max voltage and counter of how much you've used outta that battery.
Looks like its at...
if your BMV is configured correctly it should self-calibrate to 100% SOC before your chargers drop to float voltage, if it does not you may need to adjust its settings.. keep an eye on it as it finishes off charging here.
I would run everything through a master disconnect, with the BMV and mebe...
If it has a bolt style terminal on the battery I'm really fond of using these terminal fuses: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
Also check out this if you havent: http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Ive got a 200A main fuse on mine, which is twice as...
I'm a strong advocate for the Battery Protect, custom set points in a standalone unit thats solid state and does not become a parasitic drain all on its own.. really hard to beat such a good whole system LVD, a decade ago I was building em by hand and just the solid state DC relay cost more than...
Original plan was to get a Diesel Touareg when I gave em back my Golf, but they stopped putting air suspension on the later models, and I really needed more an avant length for my doggos.. so the Q7 was the natural choice, the fact that nobody's seen a battle ready Q7 was just icing on the cake...
The Bluetooth one lets you set custom setpoints, however for a lead battery the default set points are pretty suitable.. and if you wire it up to be controlled by the BMV you can adjust voltage there if you dont like the dumb ones..
its UHF (*-259) unless you got the NMO mount variant..
If your going through a rear hatch, you might want something like this: https://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-001464
you can also wire the relay output from the BMV to the remote IO input on the Battery Protect, this will let you have the BMV Drop loads based off Calculated SOC (and other params)
the way I have mine setup is the Low Voltage Disconnect is above full depletion but not high enough to get...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.