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oh wait until you start playing with like Eagle to design circuit boards, draw up full schematics.. dump all the components onto a board, and then route em all up and optimize placements.. you can use auto routing but its so much better to optimize everything by hand.. then send it off to...

Ive got a mars/cap moded Kenwood D710G for my mobile rig.. it does APRS on the left and GMRS or VHF Simplex on the right.. mostly GMRS when we are out, because I've got a family of 4+.. I dont rag chew, use Ham Repeaters are more for gathering some local info, like hey whats that smoke off in...

ayup, here's the design for the next phase I'm working on.. decided to rebuild some cabinetry over the off season, mount my repeater/vhf in it properly and put a 7in touchscreen display.. so got alot of work to get done before next spring heh.

With the Smart Solar you can also get Bluetooth, and a Remote Display.. or Bluetooth and a Remote switch, or Bluetooth and Load IO, or Bluetooth and VE.Direct to USB.. with BlueSolar, if you want bluetooth.. you loose all the rest and end up paying the same.. the Bluetooth app is worth the...

I bought a 30A Smart solar for my fixed roof 325W HIT, it went over 20A and saw ~25A a few times this summer when I managed to get max output from a high sun.. but other than that, vast majority of the time was 20A or less.. If I'd of put a 20A SC on it nothing much would have been lost.. and...

After a tree branch came through my non tempered office window during a bad tree felling, I put security film on most of my home windows.. not so much for the extra security but the safety afterwords of not having a billion shards of glass explode across a room, and the resulting cleanup...

you need to discharge that battery more I think.. both cranking out full power would be ~15A, at 90% SOC your battery wont take 15A.. but it would at 70% SOC or less.. at least for a little bit. If solar charging is limited by your battery input, you can start running other appliances.. like...

yeah thats fine, even if it was fully charged when you left 12h of 14.4v wouldn't be detrimental IMO.. thats how your starter battery gets charged, very few vehicles implement full multistage charging.. If you leave at a partial charge, say depleted at 50% SOC it'd take at LEAST 8h to get up to...

even if nobody is on the repeater you can tell if you are dialed into a repeater by listing for a squelch tail, it will hold on for a fraction of a second longer than you transmit so when you unkey you'll likely hear a bit of static real quick before it squelches.. you dont get this if your not...

yeah thats fine, derating it slightly is a safe practice.. its over-rating it thats a problem.. in a couple years do a full capacity test on it and then derate your BMV again a few percent from the results.. like before a big, long adventure so you roll out confident your battery is not on its...

With a battery that came with a strong voltage I dont see need for a capacity test either, that would be more for one that came at like 12.4v or less and its age/health is rather unknown.. not when battery is full, with it like 70% or more depleted I'm curious the differential between the...

nice, thats a clever solution you came up with tanto.. glad it worked out for you. next time your testing it and you get it fully loaded up, I'd be curious to know what the input voltage is vs the output voltage.. slap the multimeter on its inputs when its loaded and see how much the difference...

Plenty of people have done it just fine w/the Victron, as long as its bigger than the victron is configured for output it wont overload.. but this PSU has a constant current overload, it'll run full tilt if I wanted it too.. it'll do >42A at 14v, I'll have it capped at 40A in SC Ive tested my...

I only ever use chirp

I'm going to run it into a SmartSolar 100/50, its going to be dual purposed for either the shore charger or the portable solar panel.. as neither will need to be used at the same time.. kill two birds w/one piece of hardware, and then the shore charger will sync charge status w/the fixed roof...

Got an Open Box TDK-Lambda SWS600L-48 PSU for $65, this will be the new charger that I'mna feed into the Solar Controller.. Still got some work to do, but redid alot of the wiring diagram for the next phase of buildout

Memory is great for scanning, I got a ton of repeaters programmed in.. and I just scan through em when I'm looking for traffic.. I rarely look for anyone to talk too.. last time I dialed up a repeater and made a random contact there was a forest fire nearby and I was trying to figure out if I...

on mine the brakes are always hot (the brake controller is always on) and the aux output is keyed to the ignition.. they wont be on the same circuit on any vehicle unless its wired wrong.. all brake power goes through the brake controller and those usually dont come factory installed.. so it'd...

30A is what most have as over-current for on trailer brakes from Vehicle side, I doubt it uses that much and its going to depend on the number of axles.. quick googling says about 4A per brake max, so ~8A for a single, ~16A for a tandem, ~24A for a triple axle. These are usually not fused but...

the 7 pin trailer plug has a dedicated battery charge circuit thats separate from brakes.. however most emergency break-away setups do depend on the house battery for stopping the rig and his dc converter may be preventing that if its wired for a single feed to the house battery and now the its...