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Death Wobble is just a jeep thing

I have that and quite like it so far and ive not even connected to the VE direct port.. its ran all my stuff but its all low wattage travel/dorm stuff, which is good but a bit limiting.. unfortunately my bus dont have the room my trailer has for all this stuff, solar either so imna need more...

Bah, 1600VA MultPlus Inverter, perfect size for a couple LFP's (70A charge current!) and any Coffee Maker you can find.. even espresso machines. but its 220v euro, booo SmartShunt looks cool tho for mini installs where someone dunno where to put a BMV display.

a single pole solenoid dont matter what post you connect it too.. just put battery on one and starter on the other, the ignition switch will connect em regardless what side each is on.

id put some blocking diodes in the tow vehicle so you can feed both 12 and 36 volts back the trailer plug, put your booster on a switch so you can turn it on off and still tow other trailers safely without frying em.. with two blocking diodes like shown the higher voltage will always get passed...

You can find em at your local hardware store in electrical section, I tend to favor the spring loaded push in ones but those are for solid copper.. these are much cheaper, but compared to 3 wire nuts in a junction box its much more compact.. try something like "3 wire coupler screw terminal".. I...

these AC couplers make great terminals to put inline blocking diodes into some raw copper wiring.. here's my feed line to my solar charger:

the chassis ground should go to the trailer frame and be at least half the AWG as the main feed, your battery should also be grounded to the chassis somewhere, aluminum is a fine conductor, especially solid structural pieces of it. Its to keep your frame and neutral the same potential so you...

Go search about on AliExpress and I bet you'll find it.

Hardest part of programing my part 90 commercial kenwoods was getting a computer I could bootup FreeDOS on.. even a decade ago I didnt have anything w/cdrom's. Ive been using reprogramed radios for GMRS for decades now, was not until very recently that any off the shelf GMRS radios even gained...

Electronic Brakes.. the battery on the trailer is just for emergency break away on the vast majority of commercial/cargo trailers on the road.. often all you need to do to know a trailer has brakes is look to see if it has a 4pin vs 7pin plug.. you putting a 7pin on a trailer w/out brakes would...

Today I did a full charge from my 20% cutoff to 100% SOC, took 2h44m @ 30A.. heres the charge profile: Another 33% output going from 30A to 40A should bring it down under 2h for the same charge I reckon. I noticed its going right to absorb for some reason, but Ive got it configured to not...

What kind of battery do you have in the trailer? You can convert your 4pin trailer to a 7pin with a new main harness such as this: https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Weatherproof-Connector-Junction-Trailers/dp/B078N2T32T/ You'd just not hookup the brakes up to anything obviously and wire the aux...

You can stab a kickstand, lawn chair leg, etc into the tempered glass and it'll be perfectly fine.. you stab one into the plastic backing side of the panel, and its likely done for, and if not you got lucky that time. The underside of a panel is far more vulnerable to damage than the topside...

Ive heard alot of issues with heaters/regulators getting gunked up from some dirty fuel, I run a prefilter on my regulator input to help w/this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-INLINE-PROPANE-LPG-FILTER-REPLACEABLE-FILTER-MAGNETIC-LIQUID-HIGH-PSI/181152814228

They updated the screen printing, they now say IN/OUT instead of BATTERY/LOAD if you noticed. Old: New: Lucky for me I had a diode blocking current from the tow vehicle.. so I've never ran current backwards through mine.

Dont leave em in the vehicle if you wanna use em for cold start boosting, the'll be just as weak as your starter battery at arctic temps..

I'm planning on charging my Battleborn at 0.4C, it will take up to 1C charge rate before BMS would interfere.. clearly thats not a healthy rate.. from everything I've been reading 0.4C is good for LFP, much higher and I'd be sacrificing cycles.. I cant avoid needing the generator entirely, so...

This specific PSU is designed for going parallel or serial, has a load sync IO, and then that would provide redundancy.. if one died, I would be at half wattage output.. but yeah, even if I have to buy another PSU I wouldent need another SC. Definitely do not go over the SmartSolar output...

I've been searching for a nice ~40A shore charger, the only thing I found suitable was a ProNauticP/Sterling Ultra that had programmable settings, but what I really wanted was a 40A Victron Shore charger which they don't make.. in North America they go up to 25A then a big gap til you get to...