Search results

here's how my 2017 is mounted, I'm just planning on putting my Generator on it and nothing else.

are you accounting for the force of leverage? as dave calculated earlier today Then you account for the extra leverage your trailer has being a pivot, and how many pounds of force will all those bikes create when it comes crashing down after hitting an expansion joint at speed?

AFIK you wont really find a bike rack that wont say somewhere that its not for use on a trailer..

if your loads are low enough you can run everything through the controller, perhaps.. I think some of the smaller smart solar chargers by victron has a load output..

then you hit a bridge gap at 75mph that lifts it all up and slams it down and multiplies that, if only for a split second.. then repeat it for thousands of miles.

My SOC Monitor (Victron BMV-712) has a shunt that sits between the battery ground and everything else.. all grounds are hooked to a bus bar, thats hooked to shunt, and shunt is hooked to battery.. there is no path to the battery ground that does not pass through the shunt.. thus its able to tell...

Sweet spot is 200W per 100AH of Lead Battery, you can try with less but good chance you wont be terribly happy with the results.. if you go more you hedge a bit against poor lighting conditions/fractional outputs.. nobody ever regretted putting too much solar up, but many have found that trying...

I would much rather an electrical panel be an insulator than a conductor like OP here.. so as far as safety is concerned your already miles ahead in your design.

Should be doable, they just use standard couplers.. I checked and found a lock-n-roll coupler that would work on mine, but my tongue is a bit different than the lil intech's.

I've got a 1500W electric space heater in mine (hardwire wall mount ceramic ptc), only really gets used on shore power.. but I've got a 2200W Genset I could fire up and use it as an emergency backup if I ran out of LP or something. Webasto style diesel heaters are the way to go, however might...

yeah mines on a remote switch too to save power, the problem is my users (Wife and Sons) will turn it on cuz its not working.. but wont turn it back off when they are done. You could easily double that solar if you want, sweet spot is about 200W per 100AH of lead.. I'm running 650W on 100Ah of...

yeah thats about what my lil mini crockpot runs, during the day the solar has no problem powering it directly.. with my inverter tho I go for the old school non-digital appliances, but its due to a special Eco setting the inverter has that lets it sip on power when idle.. every 6s or so it kicks...

When I ran a small fridge load off a FLA, I checked the water regularly but the only time I ever added anything was at beginning and end of season right before and after I put it on a battery maintainer for the winter.. and even then it was a very small amount... When your running 0.05C or less...

What kinda loads you putting on it again? just a fridge right... yeah there's no way <5A of power gonna cause any grief w/a FLA.. now if you were daily draining it down with 200A+ loads and then recharging it with 50A+ charging then you might get some outgassing, but the thing is.. you need some...

I was thinking more edge of seasons and in winter, where a lil wind or rain/snow is a bit too brutal and indoors is nice and warm.. but yeah I been eyeing a portable canopy, but it'd likely have to ride inside, all wet and soggy.

if you dont have a USB-C laptop, DC chargers can quickly cost more than a decent small inverter.. and with a small inverter the losses are mostly negligible if its running high in its efficiency range. Using a big honking inverter to charge a laptop, usually way out of efficiency range.. very...

yeah I'll be getting a little induction burner for my trailer soon, once I have the genset mounted outside permanently.. one bad thing about my trailer design is the awning does not cover the kitchen, when I rebuild the slide out kitchen this winter about the only thing I can do is add an...

an indoor kitchen in cramped quarters would be safer w/electric if the capacity was available, there's a reason why I prefer outdoor kitchens and its largely because of flames.. plus its "renewable", LP Quality starts to get quite questionable in world travels, many countries you have a mixture...

in this case, if you put the DC charger near the aux battery, voltage drop to the DC charger is irrelevant for the most part as the DC charger will boost that back up.. as long as the wiring and fuses support the maximum rated current all will be fine, his aux battery will more than likely be...