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I was talking about his new Deka @ 12.4v, probably could use a good long uninterrupted absorb before hitting the road w/it.. his drive should bulk a battery up within a few days, but it'd take a long road trip to bring it up to full.. batteries last longer if they stay full and he dont...

it takes hours to completely charge up a battery, 90mins is not enough time to apply a full charge to a FLA.. Put it on a decent charger (~10A min) at home overnight, then put it into service.. that lil 2A device is a maintainer and will hardly charge it.. could take days w/that thing.

How many batteries you got? nobody should ever run 2000W off a single battery setup, you need like >300AH of capacity to support that kinda device correctly.. If you just wanting to charge laptops and stuff just ditch the mega inverter and get one more appropriate sized for your loads.. a 400W...

4 GC batteries would also be better suited for that mega inverter this thing has, ~250A of potential load is better suited to be spread across 4 batteries than two.. wont be as abusive. AGM's are a gimmick in vehicles, its alot of money for practically nothing in return.. dont piss your money...

When I moved up here I had a couple NA gas vehicles that were running like crap, sputtering and idling rough.. I incorrectly assumed it was due to altitude and just not enough air.. was not until I decided to put midgrade in one day on a whim that everything smoothed out and ran great, and fuel...

well apparently the BMS went into protect mode charging it back up, BB is sitting at 0.00V again and the BMV's showing its still 25AH shy of being full. BB Support been responsive this morning, been probably overwhelming em w/data.. hopefully I'll get my RMA# shortly.. Ive not mentioned this...

I bought one 50w flexible panel once, mounted it to my trailer and it was garbage within a year.. burnt through the plastic and was done.

yeah im thinking it has a ton of parallel mosfets and I cooked a good portion of em... would explain much of what I've been seeing.. maybe a few let go, and then my inverter took out a bunch more with my coffee maker.

which leads to the saying, You aint overlanding if you aint overloaded :P

yeah you might be onto something w/the SSR, now that its drained this far and not just a few AH like earlier tests I'm a bit surprised to see the battery only taking like 11A of charge current.. I can turn on as many accessories as I want in the trailer and the charge current stays 11A...

DC Fridges are very subjective in consumption, one should always test for worst case scenario and use that as a baseline.. everyone's usage and backing systems are so different what one person gets another may never accomplish.. be weary of people who are giving you feedback on runtime that...

Let the LED lights (<5A) draw it down to 22% SOC, never went into protect mode and voltage seemed reasonable at 12.91V alert is for low SOC, so the battery still has basically full life it seems.. as long as I dont draw more than ~5A outta it.

man why does all the cool ham crap require windows.. :(

27mpg is what I get in my 2.5ton AWD 3.0L Diesel w/a tire on the roof.. 29mpg is what i was originally seeing w/street tires and no roof rack.. I'm hoping a tune and delete will bring me up to 30 again. I'd say its a fairly reasonable guess, but if you put big 37in tires on it.. all bets are...

yeah thats what i'm thinking.. this will come back and look just fine and if I apparently keep the loads mild.. it does just fine. applying what I've been experiencing, where it seems fine at low loads, and fails at high loads, to Occam's Razor would seemingly point to a BMS failure of some...

Well i just charged it back full, this time basically doubled the load w/~8A.. it didnt last 10 seconds before BB went back into protect mode :( First flatline is it sitting at 14.58v, 0.0A input.. second flat line is when BMV lost all power because battery is 0v now.. looks like ~7-8A was...

should I increase the maximum absorb time in my Victron and back off its voltage to 14.2? from my understanding is there's an underlying algorithm that every morning looks at the starting SOC, and uses that to determine the absorb time.. the MAX of 30 means that if the battery was at like 70% in...

I would tend to agree now with hindsight, but at the time I knew about 20% of what I know today about LFP.. and was attracted to the KISS approach.. this will be my last BattleBorn battery, even if they make this right my comfort w/the technology is high enough now that something like what...

ive been charging it until its 0A input @ 14.6v, I figured if the shunt detects 0.00 going into battery its done with its cell balancing routine.. usually dont take very long.. no idea if BMS is just no longer accepting a charge or what.. its always seemed to me that the BMS cut off charge when...

Unfortunately no, its a sealed black box for all intensive purposes..