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https://www.gowesty.com/product/lp-tank/4323/lpg-tank-?v= Under body tanks are ASME tanks, and as such they dont expire and can be refilled indefinitely.. cheapest source for em is find one in salvage yard from a camper van and refurbish em w/fresh paint and fittings.. the one on my westy is 45...

you could swap em to wire to the inside two first then the outters.. either way is the same.. so You'd take the main negative feed to 3rd battery and main positive feed off the 2nd.. but you want it to be balanced, esp with such high loads. If you did as you suggested, the yellow batteries...

mine was 13 6MT, tuned.. got 36mpg towing that thing @ 75mph, just had tow bags.. yeah cant be beat.. I outgrew it sadly, had to get a 3L TDI and dont get half that towing anymore.. but I got so much more stuff.

you have the emergency disconnect you can use now right? it'll lock up both wheels but maybe you can hold onto it if your moving it by hand and it gets away you can just yank on that and engage brakes. I'd go for momentary switches and use latching relays, you could toggle those easy with a...

With hubs that have parking brakes you could leave em engaged all the time, would be nice backup, and you would not be kludging a bunch of wiring to your brakes.. I'm quite fond of KISS approaches. Your approach seems sound, I've even toyed with the idea.. but it seems like more work for less...

trailer sure is nice, but I like the diesel golf w/bosal hitch.. but then again I might be a lil biased

Those BT brake controllers lack two important things, especially when overlanding: Its not using brake pedal for signal source, just light outputs if you turn on your flashers/hazzards its gonna apply trailer brakes every time they come on. You cannot articulate the brakes manually, at speed...

naw, just some cable.. and dont need to be that heavy to transfer more current than the 8A a 100W panel will output (irl more likely ~5A).. a 100W panel will not be enough to keep a battery happy, it will need a more dependable charge source. DC DC charger is only REQUIRED if your using a...

I had to double check, sometimes I forget and think I'm on Gatekeeping Portal.. seems like every thread has some gatekeeper, saying.. "Ye, does not have lockers and a winch.. you shall not pass as an Overlander", or "A real expo guy does.." whatever verk's on about.

For a truck a roof mounted panel wont provide any use driving, yer alternator will have more than enough charging capabilities.. now when you park and shut off, thats when it'll be doing its job.. for a trailer its another story, my fixed roof top panel does charge while driving, because the...

they have a speed rating, 109R.. R is the speed rating, which 106mph.. mine are S rated in 17 which is 112mph. Your not going to find any truck tires with high speed ratings tho.

poor man's add a circuit, yank em out and see what stops working.

75/15 lists 220W as nominal, you could do 300w indefinitely and its not an issue.. its limit is 15A, once output hits 15A its going to throttle back input.. and since input is a higher voltage, it of course has to be less than 15A.. so its never going to exceed its capabilities as far as current...

if you expect to have a max current of 27 amps, just get the 30.. cuz IRL your probably rarely gonna see more than 20amps.. both would be fine, they dont generate much heat waste at all so your concern is largely moot.. Ive hooked over 50A of panels to a 30A controller, it did just fine maxing...

I've got a conduit bender, so I just bent some 1/2in conduit into a U shape.. done.

if your running both fixed and portable, it'd be better to run two seperate controllers.. then its moot. since both will be in different locations, both cant be expected to have the same lighting conditions.. with blocking diodes this means the partially shaded panel on your roof wont be doing...

working link: https://www.cuoffroad.com/app/download/965644219/Max+Coupler+Instructions%2C+7-25-17.pdf

44ft of 10awg @ 8A is ~6% Voltage Drop, far from ideal but thats only 0.7v drop @ 12VDC.. if your loosing 2.5v, something is wrong.. check your connections first and foremost. To get that down under 3% Drop, you need 6awg or bigger.

I doubt it, but 150W ice maker running all time would be alot more energy than a 30W fridge running all the time eh.. this is like what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7SGQ52 they just have a single cooling element, dumps ice into bucket.. then it melts and gets...

Gonna put any anchor pots down? I'm thinking of putting a few in for winching vehicles in/out and for chaining dirt bikes n stuff up.. just something to think of while in this phase. can just run pvc pipe where yeh want em and then cut it out after it sets.