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7 pin trailer plugs should always be hot IMO, mine is not (on vehicle side of plug) and guess what flashers dont work at night if the key is not in? but if your wiring up a dedicated line, I think ignition switched would be preferable, I cant think of anything you'd want power for w/out engine...

Just remember to disconnect the trailer from the vehicle so your camp loads dont drain the battery, if you want you can make it switched with a big relay on the ignition to idiot proof it and ensure your vehicle always starts up in the morning.. I've heard teardroppers complain of stopping for a...

use the big andersons and run a heavy gauge wire directly from alt or as good as you can and you might get a good 20A+ out of the vehicle while towing.. if you drive long distances then this can get you a full charge back from nothing in 8h of driving. a 7 pin trailer plug through normal wiring...

that was a major contributor to me buying a frontrunner, was not going to drill into an expensive aluminum vehicle. I've got a Comet CA-2x4SR on a FR antenna mount doing APRS, HAM & GMRS.. its about 40in long, last weekend I talked to someone on Pikes Peak on my way to Best Buy in Denver.. 60...

if they are only connected during charging it does not matter at all what size or shape they are in, thats the point of isolating em when under load.

Usually its limited to its amp output regardless of its source.. havent found much info on the DC & Solar charger tho.. so YMMV.. however unless you have a Lithium, a single battery is unlikely to take much more than 20A for any reasonable time.

Adventure? What one is that (I'm not FB) is that before they renamed everything?.. thats more than I paid for my discover new, damn i got a good deal on mine.. I was looking for more of a base camp setup, needed the biggest to fit a bunch of toys into.. The trails around here are much more fun...

I'm going to put a soft start in mine, not because it overloads my genset.. but because it wakes me up when the compressor engages at night, can feel the thump in the bed.. I thought about upgrading to a 16k btu because of the size of mine (supposedly you can run 16k aircons off a 2200...

my eu2200 has no problems firing up the little aircon on these..

You need a temp sensor for a SmartSolar to do temp compensation

that figures, as those were the only things I'd bought from Sears in the last few decades.. I bailed off the AGM bandwagon pretty quickly after sinking a bunch of money into em for nothing really in return.. im pretty sure those were the last AGM's I bought that were not just complete and total...

my bad, I was thinking the Sears Die Hard.. apparently I was not recalling correctly, its been known to happen. ?‍♂️

IIRC arent these just rebranded odysseys? mebe you can find it in their specs.. either way the AGM preset should be suitable.

10W is more than capable of reaching the horizon for most terrain, and at these frequencies a billion watts wont make it go through the earth.. also remember this is two way communications, lets say 50W let it go 10x as far as 5w just for simplicity sake.. unless the other end has 50W your not...

Drop in LFP? One bad cell kills em both, I would not do it unless they shared a BMS and cells were all matching spec.. Two different size or age batteries in the same bank tends to lead to ping-ponging, where at same SOC they do not have the same voltage.. so one battery is providing a charge...

House panels are higher voltage, my 325w is like 60v, with 100ft of 12awg I loose less than 10w.. I use tinned marine copper stranded with Anderson's..

Copper internally, steel external

camping

if you can mount propex into same area as water tank you can use a passive intake and it will circulate heat in and out of same area as water and would work as a nice thermal buffer.. this is how I keep my lithium battery above freezing, my tanks are internal thankfully.

as an added bonus that extra support looks like it'd double as a decent nerf bar if you hadda drag ass off something.