I love my GMRS repeater, finishing installing it in my trailer after a few test runs last season.. its not gonna get super insane long ranges like a fixed mountain top repeater but it extends the range around camp dramatically and it lets handhelds near camp talk to my vehicles with high power...
Pickup Welding or Soldering or something involving making things with heat, eventually you just inherently develop an instinct to not touch anything thats potentially hot.. after you burn the crap outta your self a few dozen times in the process of making those synapses more robust
if you unplug the victron it resets to 100% until you recalibrate it.. when you know the battery is fully charged you are supposed to either manually calibrate it at 100% or setup the auto calibrate so it gets triggered by your charging setup..
If the battery is really at 100% right now, drain...
people suck, I definitely don't go overlanding or boondocking to socialize.. only time I want a backup vehicle is if I'm going out for snow busting, but then thats just because if your not getting stuck your not having enough fun.. and someone else can get you unstuck pretty painlessly.
If you...
nothing at all wrong with maximizing your charge sources, I totally get that.. one thing that should be considered is the vehicle its self, for example my tow vehicle already has a sophisticated battery management system in it that requires me to input a new battery serial number into the...
my 7 pin plug only contributes ~5A max to the trailer, limited by its wiring.. Ive had a deeply discharged battery and driven for 6h and it barely put a dent in recharging it.
now I have 325W of Fixed Solar on the roof puts out about ~5A too in cloudy conditions, so when towing in overcast it...
Ive used a gallon a day at my Honda 2200 throwing whatever I wanted at it, wish I could go a couple weeks off a gallon of gas and no solar but thats just not happening.. @CampStewart funny because my perspective is different yet the goal is the same.. hooking up a quick disconnect pressure hose...
177-190W @ 12v is 15A with 100% efficiency, your charger cant magically make energy out of nothing.. the only way your getting 20A out of your shop charger with 190W is if its outputting 16v and by then you've toasted your batteries or they are not sinking 20A
something your using to measure...
nothing needs to be done for altitude, might run a lil rich but LP burns cleaner than gas does so little chance of that being an issue.. it'll be a bit less fuel efficient due to this richness but oh well.. I dont like re-tuning for altitude with these things because then when I travel down to...
~$200ish
Its not cheap but being able to use it as backup heating at home was kinda what made it justifiable.. we lost power in dead of winter a while back and it didnt take long for my poorly insulated 60's split level to shed all its heat.
Another thing I'm looking forward too is no spilt...
I'm converting my honda 2200 to LP & NG this summer, going to extend the gas line to the rear of the trailer and mount genset to the rear receiver hitch.. I really like my honda, its super quiet just charging batteries.. so quiet in fact I had to put a shore power status LED inside the trailer...
Went out memorial day weekend to a place I've been going since I was a kid, it was packed, noisey and other campers were super annoying, the cacophony of construction gensets was absurd.. but my oldest son made a ton of friends and upped his mountain biking skills flying around the park.. Took...
I got mine tested 2 years ago for Arapahoe County, had to find an AWD dyno which was a lil difficult.. but they didnt plug anything into my vehicle, look under the hood or under the vehicle.. just hooked up a few sensors to exhaust pipes, strapped it down to dyno, then railed on it a couple...
Here its just an opacity test for diesels, you can be tuned with check engine lights on and half your emissions crap deleted and still pass as long as your not rolling coal on the dyno..
A gasser has to pass readiness and will fail inspection w/a CEL, even if it has absolutely nothing to do...
Anderson Powerpoles, or MC4.. you should not be using spades for a solar setup... Also you should be putting your solar controller as close to the battery as possible and using high voltage from solar panel over longer runs, 18-30v has far less loss than 12v..
I feel yeh, my brain has become so dependant on morning joe that I can hardly operate a Keurig properly for that first cup (there's been a few occasion I forgot to put a cup under it).. my wife has an espresso machine and as much as I love me some espresso thats a naw dawg from me.. I'll gladly...
You could use both locations for house batteries if the'll fit, and then use a small racing battery for just the starter like a lil Deka motorcycle battery.. thats how I did it in my bus, shoved a big battery on each side of engine bay then tucked away a deka ETX-30L on the firewall that did...
Any vehicle just needs one starting battery, if you want when you do your house batteries you can install a selector switch that combines both banks so you can jump start the vehicle if you manage to kill the starter battery.. Engine dont run off the battery, its just used for starting and then...
Pingree Park should be fine, its pretty low altitude.. I was dispersed out there in April.
I'm going out by woodland park, was checking the town cameras and it looks fine.. highs will be in 60's, lows around freezing.. gonna take more than this to keep me home on a 4d weekend.. might be some...
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