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How bad would the camber gain at a bump value you might actually see in a heavy braking event? Mine was more than I wanted at extreme bump at full droop (without the CV's, and shocks installed) but it was well beyond what the CV's could handle anyway. At strapped droop/ bumped compression...

luthj some seriously good tech in here! I haven't had the time to sit down and read all of your posts, but I skimmed it and you have really done a thorough job. I wrapped up building my AWD express suspension last year and came to a lot of the same conclusions suspension wise. I had a hard time...

The AWD express vans have a diff that's essentially S-10 sized. I think they hold up solely because of the lack of low range. Not a very robust ring and pinion combo with that kind of torque.

Oh the 241 swap is bullet proof, proven, well documented way to go without a doubt. Big reason I am chasing the 242 dream is I have one sitting on the floor in the garage. From my junkyard surfing it appears that the 242HD shares a lot of parts commonality with the 241. If the speedo pick-up...

My newest most favorite word! Ha ha ha I really hate the look of side ladders, cheesy conversion van ladders on the back are a close second!

Have also thought about going the Northwest Fab Doubler route. This would add low range to the stock case and keep the stock t-case, not sure how the viscus coupler would like the extra torque though.

On paper it should bolt up to the 4L60E. Diameter and spline count are the same as the OE t-case, unsure of the pressure angle of the splines. I am not so set on messing with the ECM and BCM seems like a lot of extra work for not much benifit. Having just 1st and 2nd low is ok for my purposes...

Been researching how to get 4Low in my AWD for a upcoming trip this summer. My need for 4Low is more about speed control and keeping the trans temps lower. Just found this thread.......could have saved me some time had I searched here first! Let me double check that this combo works in theory...

The z-71 bumpstop is taller and is a bit firmer. The extra height helps offset the height gained from cranking. The bumpstop should be just touching the control arm at ride height. Go with ACDELCO bumps, the doorman units just don't last in my experience, plus the ACDELCO ones are only like $20...

Jeremy- Love the front cab mount trimming video you just posted! Its on the to do list for me. My 265/75R16's just barely kiss it at full lock and near full bump. The 255/85r16's i am swapping to later this year are going to need the extra clearance.

Jeremy- Love the body mount trimming video you just posted! It is on my to do list for sure!

X2! I have been running with mine off for the last few months, tried trimming the stockers and messed em up.............

Last van looks like an ex-airforce flight line van. Around here they usually idle for hours on end on the tarmac to keep the box warm/cold for pilot transport.

The thing to keep in mind with a torsion lift is that you are just re-indexing the stock suspension to sit at a taller ride height. The shocks only need to be a bit longer. If you add too much droop the upper ball joints go bind and shortly after the tie rods at the steering knuckles binds up...

Fits the stock mounts, stock control arms and is an off the shelf part number. The tuning is one thin shim different, and few psi off of the ones my buddy and I custom tuned. They are for all intents and purposes identical. I will write a more detailed post in the AWD info thread this weekend!

A 2.5 inch gives you enough room to run some real shocks, remote resivior 5160 bilstiens! Best mod I made to the front suspension!

PS are the fender vents functional? I need to do something to get the heat out of the engine bay a bit more effectively in the summer on slow moving trails.

Sounds like you have it figured out, torsion bars are pretty simple but are different from the "normal" spring type suspensions. Keys just allow you to twist the bar farther than stock! Before you go out and buy new torsion keys there is always the option of just cranking your stock torsion...

Torsion keys are pretty straightforward, any torsion keys that are for a 99 to 2006 1500 will get you lifted. If you're DIY type of person going to a junkyard and snagging some F-150/Expedition torsion keys will give our vans 2.5 inches of lift on the cheap! (I think I paid $15 for my torsion...

For those following weldtec on YouTube there is a pretty good vid of the whole rig on there