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Some of you might want to know that the subject truck of the pictures should be full size, not the pixel size.

I've got 6 pieces total at $75USD each. The rebuild kits are about $20, so $330 of labour, plus applicable shipping. I figure breakeven is about 2 services. I can use the nitrogen to recharge my moto shock too. I could even do a few rebuilds on the side if someone needed it.

Nope. Lots of mountainbike and motorbike, but truck is nothing. If someone does it, they don't advertise.

I've been humming and hawing a while now about getting the special tools to rebuild my Fox shocks. Two styles of inflators that have retractable needles, nitrogen tank and manifold, various shaft and body clamps, IFP depth setter and a few rebuild kits and bushings. I considered shipping the...

The shocks need to be valved for the springs. Everything becomes easier if the weight remains constant. Complications arise when the supported weight changes, and then a compromise needs to be made. Leaf springs need heavy rebound damping due the nature of the design. Think of a stiff plastic...

Need bags or weight distribution. At least the steering is stable with the increased caster angle.

If you live in a climate where snow is common during the winter season, you'll regret LED headligts. The do not generate heat and will ice up. Halogen and HID create enoug heat to melt the snow on the lens, in most instances.

I pulled my spare tire down last evening to begin work on installing air bags. What limited my spare to a 37" max was the wiring for the tail lights and trailer plugs were run inboard of the hitch bracket. I moved those outboard and now appears I can comfortably fit a 38" diameter tire.

I had a MBRP Dual exit pipes for my 2004. I rigged up a way to have the spare standing in the bed along the side to minimize the real-estate it took up. Never bothered to figure out if it would fit by removing the exhaust.

I don't think a 37" tire fit under the bed on my 2004 Superduty. I tried, but was unsuccessful due to the dual exhaust I had on it. The hitch frame might have changed to accommodate larger tires since stock size on some models are close to 35".

I have a spare 37" tire underneath. There's just enough space between the brackets of the hitch assembly. No pictures of the tire hoisted up, just my truck.

No, with the Fords of that era, there was a large ceramic resistor under the hood by the driver's side headlight. Unplugging that disabled the DRLs. In order to reduce the light output, you either need to lower the voltage by way of a transformer, or resist the flow of electrons. From reading...

I went into the Body Control Module with specific software and Set them to my fog lamps. this for the truck in the picture. With my 04, I just unplugged the resistor. I don't know how the Nissan controls the DRLs.

In BC, additional to the factory supplied headlights (single or dual units per side), an additional set of driving beam lamps AND a set of foul weather lamps (factory installed or aftermarket) are allowed. Above the bumper from the outside to center, HID retrofit bulbs in the OEM housing...

When I helped wire my brother's 4Runner, we just used the Scotchlok connectors on the wire for the high beam right at the bulb socket. I tried to tell him those connectors suck and we should solder the wires together and shrink wrap the connection. A year later we did that. With my trucks I...

I've got an Air Zenith which I removed from my previous truck and yet to install on my new truck. Finding a suitable space is the challenge.

Google for a standard relay wiring diagram. Need a trigger circuit (high beam) to relay, fused power from battery to relay, wire from relay to auxiliary light, relay to chassis ground, auxiliary light to chassis ground. All additional lighting or appliances should be wired through relays with...

Mounting the light bars above the windshield is one of the worst places; glare on the hood makes the light useless. If wanted on the roof, move back to rear of cab so that the forward part of the roof shades the hood from scatter. Ideal placement for lamps is ahead of the driver.

I had a Road Armor on my 2004 F350. I will probably get one for my 2016 F350, but still deciding if I want the Titan II or base Stealth. The only thing I would do is get it raw and have it galvanized before painting/coating black. The powder coating, like most other steel bumpers, is too thin.