Search results

Ahh, yes. They had gotten scarce for a bit.

And the 17" fan which will need special brackets.

While the Pajero itself is put out to pasture, well my back yard at least, current project is to get some work done on it's radiator. Here my tasks are to re-clock the filler cap, nip & tuck the lower tanks to clear the steering box and frame. Then build the through the tank mounting which...

I have an interest in a white Gen 2 Pajero fender mirror.

Comression fittings do not work on coated or rusty tubing and are not legal for fuel lines or brake lines.

Do you own flaring tools or have access to them?

Big brother, Lil brother

I buy the line in a 25' roll. Fitting are either reused or new. The Northeast is tough on these, fuel and brakes. I have towed 300+ miles with only trailer brakes. Not enjoyable. I have driven 100 miles leaving a wet trail of fuel. In your case I expect all your lines are good, just stuck...

And I have not found PB Blaster to do much for me up here in rustville USA

So, back to the beginning, a butterfly valve dropped and was recovered. The screw heads are I presume unaccounted for. Does the engine still run, what is the issue here? Have you looked in the cylinder with a bore scope? The screw heads could be jammed into a piston or blown out the exhaust. So...

Possible option, if the fitting back at the tank can be disconnected, and logically up front at a hose to the engine, drill into the filter to drain it. Now heat the fittings. I ended up running new Cu-Nickle lines 6 years ago on my 95.

I would love to find one like that to ship up north here. A driveline problem that gets the price down would fit the bill just fine.

Well that frustration is behind me. I ground the retaining washer off the new cable. The factory cable end has a 10mm pin where the China cable was 8mm, so the plastic eye end of the china cable got reamed out so I could fit the original arm into it. Valah, the transmission goes into it's...

Fun with aftermarket parts. With the decision that I do not want to drop the valve body with the transmission in chassis I decide I will setup the shift cable. Since the sump is off I can easily see just where the shifter is and determine what needs to be done to get my shift position lights to...

Drats, I remove the sump from the transmission to get to the 5mm rollpin so I can drive it out and exchange the shaft. Dang rollpin is on the inside of the shift cam and above a section of the valve body. I can not see a way to drop the valve body due to four accumulators that would not do me...

Fresh in from Japan, this is the shift shaft through the side of the Gen 3 transmission and the lever the cable attaches too. On mine when the gen 3 I pulled this out of before I bought it was in Southern New Hampshire, this thing rusted bad. The shifter must have tightened up and some mechanic...

I did a trial fit of the new winch rollers going on my winch mount I had welded up in the late 80's. I also serviced the gear end of the old Ramsey 8000 to alleviate some friction that had developed under the clutch ring. It just needed cleaning out the road grits. At this point I have just tack...

At this time I just tack welded my new to me Chinese roller set. These rollers are a larger diameter than the original Ramsey rollers. I am thinking I want to raise them up a bit before finishing this off. They could go up an inch allowing a straighter run in to the drum not to mention less...

You are right on that, I need a break from all these dang wires.

$55+ Ebay prices, get the short wires from the clock spring with them, those I am missing still since I bought off Ebay. I am sure that price can be beat. Being my vehicle are non non bagged I will be mounting onto the column