Pajero Mk2 SWB MIVEC Build

[CharlieNorth]

@MummifiedCircuitry I swapped a 4G64 into a '94 Montero, the driveline is super easy to accommodate a 4cylinder and those engines are just simple.

I want to swap a G64 into my manual trans Gen 1 Montero. My '93 MM 4G64 is an auto motor so I expect that is "narrow" Which means it will not bolt up to the manual box.
Am I correct on that? I corrected my typo above.

 

[plh]

I want to swap a G64 into my manual trans Gen 1 Montero. My '93 MM 4G69 is and auto motor so I expect that is "narrow" Which means it will not bolt up to the manual box.
Am I correct on that?

Wouldn't a stock '93 MM be a 4G64? I don't believe a 4G69 made its appearance until 2003

 

[CharlieNorth]

Wouldn't a stock '93 MM be a 4G64? I don't believe a 4G69 made its appearance until 2003

You are right on that, I need a break from all these dang wires.

 

[CharlieNorth]

I did a trial fit of the new winch rollers going on my winch mount I had welded up in the late 80's. I also serviced the gear end of the old Ramsey 8000 to alleviate some friction that had developed under the clutch ring. It just needed cleaning out the road grits.
At this point I have just tack welded the new Chinese rollers in place but will be cutting them off and raising them up an inch after a little modification to them first.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Fresh in from Japan, this is the shift shaft through the side of the Gen 3 transmission and the lever the cable attaches too. On mine when the gen 3 I pulled this out of before I bought it was in Southern New Hampshire, this thing rusted bad. The shifter must have tightened up and some mechanic F'ed up the job of freeing it up. He ended up spatter welding the arm back on the shaft and appears that greatly affected the selector switch. The new selector switch is on it's was from China, four days to get in country and so far 14 days sitting in a USPS sort facility in NJ. Maybe I will have that by the end of the month.
But then the switch did not cost me $70 USD to ship.
We have a return to winter coming tonight so tomorrow I am going to crawl under the Pajero and drop the trans pan, get the old shaft out. Once the sump in reinstalled I will roll the pajero out and bring my Colt inside and look it over, We have a near 400 mile trip late next week and that car is sweet on long hauls, especially in heavy rain, not to mention the 43 MPG.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Drats, I remove the sump from the transmission to get to the 5mm rollpin so I can drive it out and exchange the shaft. Dang rollpin is on the inside of the shift cam and above a section of the valve body. I can not see a way to drop the valve body due to four accumulators that would not do me well finding their way onto the shop floor.
I have intentions to pull the driveline before final assembly and I expect this task will need to wait till then.
Oh well.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Fun with aftermarket parts. With the decision that I do not want to drop the valve body with the transmission in chassis I decide I will setup the shift cable. Since the sump is off I can easily see just where the shifter is and determine what needs to be done to get my shift position lights to all function and the starter to function in both park and neutral. Park was no issue, but the shift lever needed to be in drive for it to function, not neutral. This being the reason I felt the need to spend stupid money on near unobtainaum parts.
I spent a few hours under this last night and have been back at it for a few more this morning.
Procedure is to adjust the shifter in neutral and set up the switch as it needs to be. I first started with the cable removed and looking at the shift pawl inside the transmission and utilizing the multi meter to pin out the continuity through the switch. All was fine, nothing wrong with the switch.
So I setup the cable, this done in neutral, well now the transmission does not go into park, it just does not travel far enough.
So I setup the cable in park, now the shifter needs to be moved into drive to engage neutral. OK, this is where I started.
In my mind the new cable I am working with was a factory supplied unit so I was not questioning it till now but there is surly a geometric error such the the transmission is not moving as far as the shifter is asking for.
Shifter and trans are out of the same vehicle. the cable end at the trans was crusty and the rubber bushing was whooped, if that word works for you.
I pulled the original part of the old cable out of where it was hiding, it is shorter than the one on this sweet Chinese cable.
The new Chinese cable has riveted the lower end in place rather than the factory push in place bushing.

Oh well, looks like I need to lay on my back and grind off the shiny new end on this cable and fit the original crusty on in place. Not to mention buy a new Chinese bushing that I guess I should have done in the first place.
I just might not bother with installing the near $180 of new parts at this point.
And now I see Amayama shows stock on factory cables and has them in UAE at a fair price, presuming they are factory parts.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Well that frustration is behind me. I ground the retaining washer off the new cable. The factory cable end has a 10mm pin where the China cable was 8mm, so the plastic eye end of the china cable got reamed out so I could fit the original arm into it. Valah, the transmission goes into it's detents called out for by the shifter in the cabin. I am allot more relaxed now.
The difference in new cable to original is 3.5mm, makes a big difference in travel.
I will drill through the 10mm stub on the arm such that I can run a 5mm bolt through to retain the new cable and I will then be beyond that time eating step.
Maybe I will start building the front propshaft for this.
I still need to acquire a rear propshaft which has a front CV joint to use as my core to build that one.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Big brother, Lil brother

 

[CharlieNorth]

While the Pajero itself is put out to pasture, well my back yard at least, current project is to get some work done on it's radiator.
Here my tasks are to re-clock the filler cap, nip & tuck the lower tanks to clear the steering box and frame. Then build the through the tank mounting which utilizes the four factory hardpoints on the body.
This is all essentially the same as I have done 33 years ago in my turbo Gen one and 15 years ago in the 3.8L Gen 2.
Along with this work will be mounting a 17" electric fan with associated fan switch.

 

[CharlieNorth]

And the 17" fan which will need special brackets.

 

[CharlieNorth]

I had a chance today to machine the thimbles that pass through the radiator tanks that allow mounting to the factory hard points up front.
These will be two custom machined long nuts on the left side and one though bolt on the right.
The center hole on the left is for a fan switch, I use the early style Mitsu switches which are available in a few different temp ranges. I have not machined that bung yet.

 

[CharlieNorth]

All machining done, parts fitted and welding will be next.
Back out to the chainsaw, cleanup time.

 

[CharlieNorth]

After a few trial fittings of the radiator with just a few tack welds, a tight spot down at the frame where the idler arm mounts needed a bit of clearancing done low on one tank and moving one fastener thimble 1mm it was welding time. I was surprised to see I spent more than 3 hrs on the tig pedal but I have a real good radiator now. With this tall 17" fan with the tall motor and even with the engine being back an inch from a normal V6 fitment I am glad I am not running the Montero style belt arrangement. It would be real tight in here.
I am going to use thumbnails for my pictures from now on, even with our fiber internet out here in the woods my thread is slow to load. Hope this works better for everyone.

 

[CharlieNorth]

The first part of this afternoon I grabbed a length of ½" 2011 hex stock and turned up a couple of long nuts to retain the left side of the radiator which has 8mm studs on the body.



The far side will have one long 8MM bolt passing through a plastic sleeve to hold the radiator to the bulkhead.