Pajero Mk2 SWB MIVEC Build

[Salonika]

I guess that makes sense, I’ve never needed to have the length though since you can just use year-make-model-motor at the auto parts store. I’d be afraid of a deer in the headlights response at my local store if I walked in and only gave them a belt length hahaha. Thanks.

 

[CharlieNorth]

I reference the manufacturers catalogs to come up with the belt number. Being belts are standardized the number can be referenced between companies. This number can then be searched either online or in a local supplier to get the part.
I also have a stash of belts that "do not fit anything" They are too long. I use these to wrap the pulleys and check my belt runs. I use a paint marker to get a reference on a pulley and belt and wrap the belt from there till I get back to the mark on the pulley. Mark that spot. Then with the belt out, use a tape rule to determine your length. It is good to have a Metric/inch tape otherwise you have math to do since most belts are metric.

A parts man would be confused if you only had a belt length, but if you have the full 6PK 1050 number or whatever the belt needs to be he just puts that in the computer and says how many days till it is there. Where I live 97% of what I need is ordered online such that one needs to learn the books.

Here are two shots of a 4G63 engine being prepped for an AWD Mirage, Due to the large amount of space the turbo and exhaust take up on the front of the engine I moved the alternator and PS pump to the back of the engine. I also make my own pulley for the crankshaft, not many people will try that. Needless to say no part of this uses factory mounting since originally only the AC compressor was back there. And this rather light performance car has no AC.

 

[airbats801]

I'm pretty lucky I can usually give belt length to the guys at my local auto parts place

 

[CharlieNorth]

Ohh boy, my long tube headers have arrived. Well some assembly is required.

 

[CharlieNorth]

I kind of thought I was getting close to getting near the end of wiring. One change I knew going in is the early Gen 2 has a cable driven speedometer as this Pajero does. I knew I needed to swap the diesel tach with it's 4700 RPM redline to a gas tach with the 6,000. Again not a worry. Being the gen 3 Tcase has no provision for a cable drive I knew a Gen 2 speedo would be in order with some brand of calibrator inline. The speedo has a separate two pin connector, that makes it simple to add that circuit. So I get a cluster cleaned up and plug it in to the Pajero's harness, I know the '95 SR cluster has a few more terminals but things look good. That is till I power this up. Well I turn on the parking lights and all 3 shock positions illuminate. Run the shifter though the positions and the park light illuminates in drive, nothing else. Essentially nothing else tried to work.
I now see the diesel tach has it's own 6 pin harness and I am not sure I can swap the later speedo into the Pajero cluster. Dang, it looks like I have another can of worms. Oh well. I sure wish I had a proper service manual for this Pajero. I had a '94 book I downloaded from a Russian site but discovered the harness is completely different than this '93. I might have deleted that file too, Dang it.

 

[CharlieNorth]

I think I might have found my way at least part way though the meters, Looking in the book which shows both the early and late wiring I see allot of differences. Looks like I might have a guide to moving allot of wires around. Not going to tackle this today though. I wish I had an early USDM meter assy to simply test this theory.

 

[CharlieNorth]

So, it has been quite some time since updating. Awhile back I estimated my time to build the wire harness to be in the 200-250 Hr range, golly was I wrong since I am well over double those hours. A major part of this time was mapping the five terminals with their 50 some positions on the back of the meters, normally for me this is simple. But once I determined my work path and that most every wire needed to be relocated I then formed my approach. I worked with the factory books for what they covered and wrote up my documentation for the swap.
Armed with my pages of information I went into the shop to start making changes and a confusing frustration set in. Nothing, just nothing I wrote up made any sense for my task at hand. I had printed out fresh color photos of the wire connectors in one of my '95 SR which I am using the meter from and those pictures are nothing like my document says I need to build. It took me some time but I came to realize the 92-95 FSM wiring book has major errors in it.
Things like the meter has two each of 12 and 14 pin connectors. The manual has the pin locations reversed from what is printed on the circuit board. OK I can work with that. But even simply reversing my numbering on my documents very little was matching the circuit board.
At this point I floundered a few days.
My next step was to reverse engineer the meters themselves. I setup a meter, the instrument cluster on my lap, my trusty Fluke multi-meter set next to me in continuity mode and a clip board on my right. With this I back traced every circuit of each meter on two sets of paper. Then down to the Pajero and assigned wire colors to each terminal in the vehicle such that I have the proper coding for the original.
Now I could generate the needed document guiding me to move each wire to where it now needs to be. Of the 50ish wires, about 5 could stay where they were.

At this point I have powered up the system and have part of the functions tested out. I know not everything will be working at first running of the engine since the '08 Eclipse depends heavily on a Canbus system, something we did not have in the early '90s. I will deal with that later not to mention the differences in vehicle harness going from Diesel to Petrol engine. This being my current scope of work.

I am just now trying to back down from a few weeks of averaging 16-18hr days and get back to my usual half day work, AKA 12 hr shifts.
During this period the 3 foot deep hard pack of snow mysteriously went away although this morning it is trying to come back again.

 

[CharlieNorth]

I just went back to one of my early posts where I stated my estimated time to wire this being 450 to 500 Hrs with 100 to go from the 200ish I had then. Well that 500hrs has long since past and I still have another 200 to go. Humm
Heck I have had a few boxes of tubing sitting here for a month and I have yet to even start building the headers for the engine not to mention propshafts and such.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Over the past week I decided with the break in weather with spring finally trying to arrive, the Ice finally off the pond and the last of the snow melting away it was time I could roll the Pajero outside allowing me to see it in better light as well as get a chance to pick up the accumulating crap in the shop and sweep the floor.
It is nice to work outside once in awhile and one of the tasks was to start freshening the winch mount that is going on this. Way back in '89 when I did the turbo swap on My Gen 1 I soon discovered that even when the temps were below zero, one could get stuck in mud when driving through a forest. I was alone and the hours it took me to get out made it clear to me the value of a winch. A week later I had a shiny new Ramsey REP 8000 sitting on the shop floor. I pulled the guards down from the Monti to figure what I was going to do with it. I found the front of the frame has two 12mm holes vertically which seemed the would be useful.
So I welded up a mount from 2X2 box tube with channel steel wings to bolt to and simply welded the fairlead to the front of this. I do have photos of the build but they are on slide film and not so easy to find from my files in a drawer. That being back in the late '80s I do have a few shots from 2007 when the winch was transferred over to my 3.8L '95 SR I was building.
It sure ain't pretty anymore having decades of salt spray and early in life hours of being submerged with the many headlight deep water crossings we did when it was new.

Here it is under the SR 15 years back

And this week the mount, mounted up under the Pajero, soon to be blasted and have a new fairlead installed.

 

[CharlieNorth]

So this might be considered sacrilege but since I am one who is many times the first to do something. Back when I took delivery of this Pajero it had a 2" body lift in it. I left it in till the new driveline was set in place but soon realized there were no clearance issues to the body, and being the fabric on the drivers seat is destroyed from the previous owner clambering in and I expect I am no taller than they are, I chose to eliminate the spacers. Besides the low quality of raising the bumpers and other lack of detail when this was lifted was crap I chose I did not want.
So I am one of the very few on this forum to remove a body lift.
So after cutting the thin wall 2X4 tube out and restoring the front bumper mounts it was time to trial fit the front bumper. It looks right and can be adjusted as needed. And as stated in my previous post it was time to put this outside in the sun for a few days. Here is where it is at.

 

[MummifiedCircuitry]

500+ hours of wiring is enough to contemplate leaving this world behind. How difficult do you figure swapping a 4g69 into an SR would be? I see them all the time at the junkyard.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Pajero Mk2 SWB MIVEC Build - New reply to watched thread

500+ hours of wiring is enough to contemplate leaving this world behind. How difficult do you figure swapping a 4g69 into an SR would be? I see them all the time at the junkyard. Allot of my hours built up while I was discovering errors in the 92-95 Montero service manual Especially the post '94 electrical section relating to the instrument cluster. I ended up reverse engineering the parts and vehicle harness. That is where allot of time built up. I am very good with electrical work from drawing up and etching my own circuit boards to wiring. This one caught me off guard. One thing I find a blessing is this is not a customer job that I need to bill out the time. But it has eaten up a month of very long days. A week ago my wife commented when I could not figure out how to cook dinner, that is when I realized I needed to roll this outside and work on mechanical parts for awhile. 4g69 is a nice motor, is it enough for an SR? for my desires it would not have enough torque to suit me with that weight vehicle. You considering one from a Max or a Sport? The Max, the ecu is OBD1 and the harness can be worked with as if it was a stand alone. For the most part. power, ignition switch and a few outputs. That is a bit over simplified since the Tachometer signal needs to be conditioned to read properly. Nothing difficult but needs to be done to be right. The Sport engine will be quite similar but with a few more wires to cope with OBD 2 parameters. Mechanically the automatic should be able to swap bellhousings. Not much fabrication work. I want to put a G69 in my Gen1 I use as a plow truck. I am frustrated of cold weather carb issues. The carb is no issue when warm out but I need to prime the engine in the cold, real PIA. The G54 in the plow is a 30K mile engine. But the carb is one moody ********** in the cold. Today it was just touch the key and it runs.​

 

[MummifiedCircuitry]

Pajero Mk2 SWB MIVEC Build - New reply to watched thread

​ Allot of my hours built up while I was discovering errors in the 92-95 Montero service manual Especially the post '94 electrical section relating to the instrument cluster. I ended up reverse engineering the parts and vehicle harness. That is where allot of time built up. I am very good with electrical work from drawing up and etching my own circuit boards to wiring. This one caught me off guard. One thing I find a blessing is this is not a customer job that I need to bill out the time. But it has eaten up a month of very long days. A week ago my wife commented when I could not figure out how to cook dinner, that is when I realized I needed to roll this outside and work on mechanical parts for awhile. 4g69 is a nice motor, is it enough for an SR? for my desires it would not have enough torque to suit me with that weight vehicle. You considering one from a Max or a Sport? The Max, the ecu is OBD1 and the harness can be worked with as if it was a stand alone. For the most part. power, ignition switch and a few outputs. That is a bit over simplified since the Tachometer signal needs to be conditioned to read properly. Nothing difficult but needs to be done to be right. The Sport engine will be quite similar but with a few more wires to cope with OBD 2 parameters. Mechanically the automatic should be able to swap bellhousings. Not much fabrication work. I want to put a G69 in my Gen1 I use as a plow truck. I am frustrated of cold weather carb issues. The carb is no issue when warm out but I need to prime the engine in the cold, real PIA. The G54 in the plow is a 30K mile engine. But the carb is one moody ********** in the cold. Today it was just touch the key and it runs.​

Doing a little mechanical work will be a nice break for the brain, I've always found wiring to be pretty overwhelming.

I actually wanted to put a 4cylinder in my 97 SR mainly for simplicity. I hate working on V6's, especially the 6G's, and parts/spares availability are a lot better locally with the 4G69. I know they are way down on power, but I'm not too concerned with that for this vehicle. I'd imagine it's very similar to a starion swap, but I'm not sure the 4G69 ever came in RWD/4WD configuration, so I'm not sure what mounts, pulleys, etc could be swapped to make it work, also how to keep the 4wd system functioning or if it could easily be controlled independently from the 4G69 ecu. I think it was toasty who suggested a 3RZ or similar engine would be a better swap for a 4cylinder though.

 

[CharlieNorth]

Compared to the SOHC engine in the '97 the G69 is primarily giving up some low end torque. With a manual trans, not real bad, with an automatic it will in ether case just need to rev up more. I live in hilly country and it gets noticeable. Just not hilly enough that you know you can not stay in high gear.
The automatics behind the 3.0 engines generally will have a bellhousing for a 4 cylinder available. I have not done any research on this since the Gen 1 but I would look at Sport parts. There should be something that will mix & match.
For manual 4wd I expect you need to look at earlier Mighty Max bits.
Driveshaft will need some trickery of mix & match due to the smaller size of the 4 cyl transfer case.
Toasty has more hands on with the small engine swapping than I do.
The old Starion engine, if the head is properly ported and the turbo kept down in size will rival most all V6 for power especially down low in the band. My Gen 1 turbo swap could haul a loaded trailer over 100 all night long, well at least gas station to gas station. But I did have a 30 gallon tank in that rig as well. Just don't stop for long cause the transmission needs cooling.

 

[Toasty]

@MummifiedCircuitry Wide block 4G64's are not too uncommon but they share parts with the super common 4G63 and can build a ton of power, then you could have the long stroke truck motor with the car DOHC and turbo. I swapped a 4G64 into a '94 Montero, the driveline is super easy to accommodate a 4cylinder and those engines are just simple. Otherwise the 3RZ i believe shares a bellhounsing and stuff with our AW3 transmissions so it's not a terribly involved swap, just expensive.