Search results

Did some test driving tonight... I can finally reproduce the sound. going down hill (is easiest) where I'm riding the brake, if I jerk the steering wheel to the left or right, I hear the knocking/clunking.... It seems to be coming equally from both sides. I'm just cresting 127k miles... any...

So for the last month or so, I've been getting this clunk noise when I turn and accelerate and sometimes decelerate. I can't make the sound happen on command, but I can put the vehicle into situations where it is likely to happen. But if I were to turn left, and give is some gas (parking lot...

Glad to hear it worked! I've got nearly the same picture (different tow vehicle) from earlier this year.

I think the key thing here is the tongue weight... would have been like 40 lbs? basically just the weight of the actual tongue. I also find this shuttle/toyota thing a little misleading. SO you're telling me that they swapped out all of the hydraulically driven wheels for ones that spin freely...

just keep a look out. I picked up a '99 earlier this year for less than his asking price. I did have to drive a 20 hour round trip to pick it up, and had to put about 500 in parts toward it right away, and do a bunch of work. Head gasket was blown, timing belt pulleys had thrown their bearings...

The ARB on that one alone almost makes the truck worth the price he is asking. Good luck!

So this just happened today, it still works fine, just doesn't stay attached to my key ring..... anyone have any suggestions for a fix? I noticed that inside, the PCB has a hole in it... I could drill through the fob case, and string something through that hole to attach it to my key ring...

I had a problem with an aftermarket water pump. The housing was a little thicker in one spot, which caused the accessory mount to not sit flush on all posts, which caused some alignment problems for the oil filler cap bracket.... pretty much forced me to do the water pump job twice.

HA! I think I remember seeing some photos of the back end of your rig in the drink well up into the spare tire. Makes me think that capping at the front, and then weep hole in the back would allow for draining, but not too much water build up. Just be sure to park on an incline after a crossing.

is it capped off in the front? I'm wondering if those should have some kind of weep hole to allow for some draining should water get inside.

I assume you will fab little caps for the open frame to keep most bits of junk and debris out?

link for the pin out http://www.miklor.com/uv5r/UV5R-Technical.html in another posting -> http://www.qsl.net/w6dps/APRSDroid.html, he added a couple of 500 Ohm resistors. I think this basically helps step down the volume from the smart phone, so that the you don't send too strong of a signal...

That is something I should do... I was able to drive it up on ramps and double check the alignment markings, should be easily able to compare old arm to new... I'm guessing they markings aren't in the same position from one arm to the other, because I can't think of any other reason why the...

Ok, I get what you're saying now.... you might be able to hack together a cable that has the baofeng standard plug on one end, and then convert it into the 4 pin iphone mic+stereo out iphone cable. It looks like the baofeng cables I have support 2 channels on both speaker and mic. Stereo...

do you have links to the necessary cables?

So I put on a new pitman arm and idler arm yesterday. Tie rod ends were replaced about 35k and 4-5 years ago. The alignment marks on the pitman arm to steering box are spot on, but my steering wheel needs to be turned to about the 1-2 o'clock position for the rig to drive in a straight line. I...

My concern is getting into a time crunch and not being able to get it done.... then someone is left with a truck that won't run, and someone who might not be able to make it back for a while to help out with the repair.

The timing belt and water pump don't require much more than a few box wrenches (10,12,14mm) a basic socket set (10,12,14mm regular and long). Beyond that a pair of needle nose pliers, and maybe a chain wrench or something suitable to hold the balancer while you undo the cam shaft bolt. I would...

Booo!!! But thanks for the confirmation.

So.... you're saying... I can pull the seats and use the drivers side in my 2.5, and keep the power if I change out seat base and seat back? But I won't be able to install a bouncy passenger seat? I'm just up the road from that pick you part.... any idea how long they take to pull, or what...