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That’s an awesome idea/gesture. Personally, I’d set it up as a “business” for liability and tax reasons, even if the shop use fee is something like $10/day and you choose to waive it for more than a few folks. Things I’d be interested in if I were a guest would be: 1. A place to ship things...

Thanks for the Powerwerx link, had seen some of their stuff before but getting caught up on these newer “standards”. This is interesting too, not flush mount but might actually be an easier option to put inside a console or under a seat. https://powerwerx.com/quickcharge-75w-usb-dc-charger

Small update, not a whole lot of progress to report but it’s been seeing a decent amount of use. Ready to get going on the home stretch and have it not covered in rust. It’s done really well hauling everything I’ve put on it so far, no photos of the pallets of plywood but it has more margin in...

Cool build. I’m jealous of some of the stuff other countries get, like practical vehicles rather than “you can roll the windows down from your phone!” and “this tailgate has 17 cameras and a flip out TV!” https://autoline.info/-/sale/passenger-vans/VOLKSWAGEN/T5--22091922153257260100

I didn’t say a locker wasn’t superior, I just said it’s unnecessary for 99% of LR3/4 users, and if experience is with other vehicles without lockers is VERY different due to LR’s modern traction control. I didn’t get out and take a photo of the vehicle sitting in the mud hole, as I was focused...

IMO, mileage is overrated on these things. Mine is an 08 and has 218k at this point, most of the parts failures are going to be age related or on 2x vs 3x replacement schedules (control arms, brake rotors, etc). Mine has needed some work, but nothing related to the drivetrain other than engine...

It’s not that bad if you do the steel pan conversion and cut the old filter to remove. One of those jobs you dread and out off but it isn’t horrible once started. A cut down stand alone torx bit with a 10mm hex base and a 10mm gear wrench are your friends. I didn’t remove the exhaust or...

FWIW, it’s unlikely you’ll need the rear locking diff. Land Rover traction control is black magic. My wife drives a RRSC, locking rear diff. Most extreme “off roading” it’s done was a soaked clay road at the gun range. My dad had an LR4, locking rear diff, don’t know it ever went down a dirt...

The problem with payload and towing numbers is that people take them as an “end all, be all”, partly because the manufacturers present them that way to get sales. If your payload is 2,500 lbs, you can do 1,000 miles of pothole/washboard roads in Baja loaded to 2,499 lbs with zero problems, but...

Been using it a decent amount but been too busy with work to actually get it “finished” yet. Have a new guy starting the week after next that I’m hoping works out to give me a little more free time to finish this. Will try to at least post a few updates of the other features/attachments. Also...

You can easily bypass the heater core to deal with it in the meantime. I’d agree that the HVAC issues are likely caused by coolant leaking into the electrical connections. Radios did have codes, mine was in the owner’s manual. I’m sure there is a bypass by this point in time if you don’t have...

For anybody worried about “Range Rover reliability“ (or lack thereof), my wife drives an 08 RRSC. Over 6.5 years and putting 100k miles on it (in addition to the ~ 55k from the previous owner), we have replaced: Tires twice (wore out both sets) One air strut Front brake pads and rotors Battery...

Your width issue is significant IMO, primarily due to the fact that it is max width at the top of the shell. This means on any off camber passage between trees, etc, the top of your trailer will actually require more width than what it measures at the tires. The trailer I’m currently building...

Apparently it’s a “meatless” pemmican bar, if there could be such a thing. I’d sue them for attempting to mislead consumers, but I hate meatless meat products with a vengance. FWIW, I don’t know that I’ve ever heard pemmican described as “good”. It was what it was when you were 500 miles into...

I’m assuming you’re talking about the air strut spacer lift, and not lift rods. While this one does provide actual ”lift” one major benefit is allowing the vehicle to still roll in the event of an air strut failure, rather than having oversized tires jam up in the wheel well. My point is with...

I think you have a fine base so long as you’re not planning to turn it into an enclosed camper that you sleep inside of. For extending the tongue, I’d replace the coupler with a length of 2” receiver tubing, so you can put your coupler on 2” square tube and slide it in and out as desired...

Hey guys, will post some more tomorrow. Here’s a shot of the suspension, I think the tires measure somewhere around 26-27” tall and I have 16” clearance under the axle. Ground clearance did matter to me as the tow vehicle has IFS/IRS so it doesn’t drag the diffs in ruts, but I should have plenty...

Cool build! Are you planning on storing it in a garage? Unfortunately, if it’s out in the weather the plywood will eventually check (develop small cracks) even with the resin and paint, without fiberglass cloth over it. Not likely to be an issue for trips out in the weather.

In FL 95% of drive thru’s and low clearance bridges are 9’0”. Parking garages are less obviously but that’s typically not a big issue.

Most of it mocked up Got the tires mounted with a pair of dirt bike spoons and some soap, and 4x10 sheet of 14 gauge finally came in. Still working on fender mounting height and width, cut some rear panels out with the plasma and tacked them in.