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I don't have much of an opinion on this, but you might want to talk to your fellow Texan with a JKU that pulls a trailer fairly often. Holly York, very active on Instagram

That's very cool. I saw a TJ outfitted with that AirRock suspension set up and it was extremely effective on the trail. Nice build, GLWS.

This unit is comparable to the Amazon unit you purchased https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BE7FT/Boss-BE7ACP-FT.html?tp=72334 I personally would recommend a slightly higher end version, like this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104BE10ACP/Boss-BE10ACP.html?tp=72334 I put an inexpensive Boss unit...

This image might help

Does the screen detach from the head unit? If so, then based on this picture, you screw the flat metal panel into the bezel of the dash using the four holes prominently shown in this image (assuming your factory radio is a double DIN sizes unit): Then snap the screen into place over the metal...

I know you probably didn't buy it from Crutchfield, but they still might be willing to help you, their entire business model is based around the "missing manual" concept, and their customer service is the best in the industry. Perhaps return the Amazon unit and buy a replacement from...

Sold! Not sold! Dealing with flakes is exhausting. Still available.

I have a 1st gen Mavic Air drone for sale. As trail leader, I just don't have enough opportunities during trips to use this as much as I'd like. This is a full kit, with 4 batteries, two (2) 64gb SD cards, and some aftermarket accessories such as phone holder that makes this a bit more...

One word, and its not Laywers, its Physics. The cantilever force at the outer end of the hub bears exponentially more force than the inside flange does.

I would (and do) trust Toasty's experience

Exactly that. They "pinch' the tire bead into place, against the flange of the rim. When your tire buckles because of the low pressure, the bead stays intact and you won't loose air, or get sand/snow into the rim that further breaks the seal...

I've gone down to 12 in sand, but to go much lower, you might consider running an internal beadlock bladder. https://ok4wd.com/exterior/wheels-tires/wheel-tire-accessories/internal-beadlock

Oh yeah, I totally agree strongly with these two!

See, no one wants to say, because a couple years ago $4k would have been a fair offer and they are all privately hoping to buy this off you for a bargain. Nowadays? Heck, you might get $18k at Bring-a-Trailer, who knows? The market is cooling off, but it’s still glowing hot

Fuel injector o-rings are like $8 for all of them, and I find the origionals get very hard and non-pliant after a few years. You might want to consider a fuel filter also. x2 on the compression test, and easy to do with the intake off. Which by the way, there is a bolt in the far, far, far...

Great looking Monty. I didn't see fuel injector o-rings, or PCV valve.... And, the crankshaft blade, Is that the timing plate? I ask, because there are several versions. Make sure your new one lines up exactly like your original.

Just to update this thread, I think I found the definitive answer. Apex Design "Rapid Precision Valves" https://www.apexdesignsusa.com Quick Video: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CgA2152J8R2/

I ran 265/75/16's on my Gen 3 and they were about perfect in size. A comparable tire size in 17" wheels would be 265/70/17: Here is what mine looked like on 265/75/16's. By the way, I am a huge fan of the Falkien Wildpeak AT3 tire. quiet on the pavement, excellent off road, good in rain and...