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I also ran a DA sander with 60 grit across all my aluminum tubes for better adhesion.

Mike I ended up using 3/4" aluminum square tubing for a lot of the conduit. The PVC square tube I bought was a mistake. It did not stick to the epoxy at all. The aluminum worked great. If I did it again I would use 1" instead of 3/4. Running the wires was a pain in the ass.

Shoot me an email and I'll give you a discount code :) admin@sawtoothent.com

Well at some point this thread hit 2 million views which makes it the most viewed thread in the DIY forum. I'm still blown away at the popularity of this trailer. To date I've sold 54 sets of plans to 14 different countries. Thanks to everyone who viewed this thread and encouraged me on this...

Thanks Scott (y) I have aluminum inside the roof panel and wanted to make sure it was stuck to that and a couple other places in general plus I had some plywood stoppers at the back end of the roof. We almost ran out of epoxy on this one so the front was a bit thin. Wanted to make sure the...

Thanks :) I added it up last night and its only about $300 for the wood I need so that is somewhat bearable. Just dislike buying new material strictly to throw away after use but it's all part of the game I guess.

Well I'm finally back on it :D The last panel has been laminated and glued onto the trailer. Roof panel complete. I added in aluminum supports for the roof hinges and latches at the front and rear. New vid link at the bottom (y)(y)

Liquid Nails is a consumer grade product, it's very high viscosity (300,000 CPS) which means it would be a huge pain to spread out and has a shear strength of about 275psi. Epoxy has a viscosity of about 250-500 CPS so it spreads way easier and soaks into sanded xps quite well and also has a...

Thanks. Yes seeing lights working is pretty satisfying :) The form is all 1/2" plywood and I used a stapler to fasten everything to the table. I didn't offset anything although my measurement was off on one side of the form so I missed the edge of the plywood so its unsupported. Should be ok...

Roof form is done. Some of the lights work :) New vid at the bottom

Yes I'll laminate the whole panel and cut the center out of it. Then I'll build on top of that form like below. Model is incomplete but you get the idea:

That form as it sits is for the roof panel which is the last laminated panel I need to make. Then after that is done, the positive for the fiberglass pop top roof is built on top of that. See below:

That form is for laminating the roof panel. I have to build the positive for the fiberglass top after the last panel is laminated. I've been studying fiberglass procedure for a couple years so I think I have it all worked out when I get to that point. Thanks for the tips.

Got the roof panel form built. Also got more wiring done. Tail lights, license plate light and 3rd brake light are mocked up. Had to order more hardware from McMaster for the marker lights. 3 stores within 5 minutes of me and none of them had the stainless screws I wanted. They are expensive...

Looks good Scott (y)

Thanks Greg. I was pleasantly surprised by the Blue Sea unit. Very well made (y)

@ITTOG Thanks (y) I haven't put anything on the exterior rivets but the majority of them will get covered in Raptor when I do that along the bottom. I shouldn't have any exposed rivets on the exterior at all after the Raptor is on.

Thanks Scott (y)

Got a few things done this past weekend. The fender trim is half done. I did both but the first one didn't turn out very good so I am re-doing it. I also got all the wires fished through the conduit. What a huge pain in the ass. It worked but in hindsight I should have used either bigger conduit...

I'm going to start working on the form for the roof panel soon. Once that is done that form will get built on to make the positive for the pop top. I'm not too worried about filling the kerfs up with Teroson. It doesn't stick to the foam all that great anyway. I'll just double the seam and...