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So-called 'PWM' controllers use power electronics that vary the switch on/off as high speeds - typically tens of kHz or higher - to regulate flow. Non-PWM controllers use a liner regulator - think variable resistor - to regulate power flow. PWM is much more efficient. NEITHER have...

I've read about a number posts talking about NL systems with random/ weird gremlins. Shame on NL -> An 85A bridging solenoid/contactor is simply ridiculous - modern vehicle alternators can output 80-100A at idle and 150-200A while cruising down the road. A discharged battery can & will max out...

1. 20' is shorter than you think in the field - especially if parking in the shade and keeping the modules in peak sun all day. Don't forgot to account for curve/loops in the wire when running around tires, out of the truck, up to the modules etc. #14 is a waste unless the run is very short...

Whatever controller you get, don't waste money on nonMPPT controllers. A charge controller, a PWM controller, solar controllet, are loose terms that can mean many things...in this space, if it doesn't say MPPT, you wasting solar energy. Without an MPPT controller, you could be losing 20% or...

Yes it does. Definitely compresses more than stock...hard to say if it bottoms out anymore or less than stock. The shocks and Mopar lift kit have about 20k miles. No evidence of oil leakage. I pulled the shocks off the lower mount and while not a meaningful test, are quite hard to compress...

How did you make out on the troubleshooting? sent via the cone of silence

Thx for the response...do you happen to have a link for the videos? I must be missing something? I had 700# in the back today spread out somewhat evenly - and nothing else. Squatting didn't seem all that bad. However, I was hitting the bumpstops far more often than I recall with my stock...

Awesomely detailed response. Thx! sent via the cone of silence

I don't have an issue with the coils sagging, it's more that the *** end takes a huge dive when I hit a bump/hump in the road. Pretty sure I am under-sprung - I'm in the fence between a multirate could (synergy, RK, etc) and a single rate like the OME. sent via the cone of silence

How do you like the Titan? As soon as I figure this out (and decide on a rear bumper/tire carrier), I will be mounting it. What carrier are you running? Hard top or soft? sent via the cone of silence

So if I read the above responses, do most think I am undersprung in the rear? The amount of sag with the weight is relatively minor. I haven't measured it yet since it didn't seem all that bad. Next trip I will try to find some scales and will weigh it. sent via the cone of silence

Sumo springs are awesome and great budget "speed bump stops" My issue is that I am seeing way too much squat over bumps/humps in the rear. The return bounce is controlled just fine. See link here http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83648 Look at post number 11 for difference in...

Gents...I am not running factory springs...it has the Mopar 2" lift kit..which replaces factory springs with new ones and Fox shocks all the way around. I have not been able to tell if the springs in the Mopar kit have a rate higher or lower than stock. My 07 Rubicon springs were shot at...

Bottoming out occurs when going over bumps/dips at speed on freeway or high speed gravel roads and suspension runs out of compression. The rear end drops down after the bump/dip and bottoms out htting the bumpstops. The sumospring is a bumpstop replacement that offer a progressive spring rate...

Posted this type of question a few different ways on another forum, but didn't get much in the way of responses...figured folks on here may have a better understanding of running loaded. The back end of my 07 JKU Wrangler seems to bottom out really easily when mildly loaded and /or towing a...

Dont throw the baby out with the bath water just yet. Lots of issues can contribute to a hot running engine, but you need to verify first. Is it actually overheating (bubbling, steaming, limp mode) or just the gauge indicating elevated temps? If just the gauge indicating a high temp, use a...

Any thoughts of making a kit?

dwh and Bravo are correct - the smartpass will charge both the main battery & aux battery when solar is present. Charges house/ alternator input then changes to the aux battery/load. I misread the manual and may have to alter my installation and use a latching relay instead to cut power to the...

It will add some cost, but look into ctek DC/dc chargers for your AGM. These can supply up to 20A of charging current and recharge it much faster than the 3A battery tender. They are also available with a built in MPPT. I did the same thing you did - been building a "Goal Zero Boxes" for...

I like the slide concept. Ditch the cigarette lighter plug...they are completely unreliable no matter who makes them or the mods that are performed. The voltage drop across the connection can be non-negligible especially during a startup of a compressor. My older Domentic CF-018 will...