Yes I have read it a few times, There a lot misleading stuff or wrongly named items out there on the net and in the same respect people here have a habit at taking shots at people who are either not well versed with the terminology, It has almost become a Sin against Humanity to write A instead...
People should be smart enough and take the time to understand what the person is saying instead of trying to find fault in their terminology,
A tail light Bulb/Globe that has 12w stamped on it is still going to chew 12 Watts in an Hour regardless of whether people demand the Poster writes 12w...
I have been power testing my ARB 47 and the 78L they are just as good and for many years ran the same compressor, N/L are really good and stylish but are a bit too expensive to go bashing around in the bush with, The ARB's were specifically made for 4x4 use not Touring etc and they were tested...
National Luna will be my next fridge,
You would not believe the power the little 35L Snomaster uses, (n)(n)(n)
I like the speed it cools down and the Accuracy of the Temp Gauge but the Power it eats on AC or DC is horrific, When plugged in to AC it can only use the "Hi" power mode where as on...
Well I would start with beefing up the wiring first and then plug the fridge in using the Original ARB Lead and see if that works If not then I would replace the ARB lead and see if that works, and if not borrow another battery and see if it is to blame and then go from there, (y)
Having 2 ARB's I bought 3 spare leads and 1 or 2 spare screw in sockets, It's cheap insurence to have a spare lead for when things go south on the trail, (y)
So basically you have just said what I said in my last post,
I have run 100's of Basic fridge test in laymans terms,
When a fridge starts the meter displays Wp =Watts Peak, Ap = Amps Peak, Ah used, Wh used, Running Watts and Running Amps,
How could it if Ah is an hourly rating, The 7Ah/ is Amps Peak which only lasts for nano seconds and if a fridge is running at between 5.5Ah to 6.5Ah and that is Amps Per Hour not per minute and not per second. because if that was the case we could never haul enough batteries to get it to run for...
No, 7Ah is an hourly rating so no matter if it runs for 5 minutes or 60 minutes it is still only going to use 7Ah,, The Running Ah is around 4.6 to 4.8ish at that rate. @ 5 minutes it's going to use 0.583Ah @ 7Ah and at 4.6Ah it's only going to use 0.383Ah.
I drove my self nuts trying to find the problem, thing was although having 12v at the socket in the back is not enough because once the fridge starts running the fridge can drop the battery voltage down by as much as 0,4v under lode so you end up with 11.6v or less then the battery protection...
Yes it might have but ARB's wiring loom is right on the bare edge when it comes to the Current Supplied Vs the Current Needed, Where as 8AWG would be the better option.
The reason my 4x4 parts Dealer told me to swap out the wiring to aheavier guage is because he has had to replace the ARB...
Yep I agree, Also buying too many batteries trying to build an impressive power reserve might seem like a good idea but the effort involved in keeping those batteries meens spending 3 or 4 days a month cycling and Charging them back up to avoid buildup on the Plates. As I have to do every month...
You would be better off running heavier wires and removing the ARB wiring kit,
The 4x4 Company who sold me my ARB fridges told me to forget the Kit and go up 2 steps in Wire Size, and use the ARB 2 pin Sockets.
So is this one powered by LG. Type that in to amazon and the fridge pops up with an LG Sticker on it,
Alpicool CF35 Car Refrigerator, 35L Portable Mini Freezer
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