The clamp on posts were needed because they were starting batteries.
To keep your house batteries healthy you’ll need:
1) lots of solar &/or a multistage charger
2) an ACR type change relay (or manual combiner)... ditch the diode isolator if it has on.
Binicle marine had the best price I...
The interior cot lights weren’t working unless reliably. They would work sometimes if I toggled the Ambulance Connect on & off a few times... until the box wouldn’t power up. After a quick check of the breakers without finding the source, I found that the ‘Life Support’ solenoid was dead.
I...
I think there are a couple pictures of the master & booster in my build thread, but none of the swap. The parts look the same on the outside and were direct bolt in with zero mods. The lines just had different sized fittings on the ends.
The only unknown was which line went to the front and...
More responsive brakes. Less travel to get same force. Once I replaced the vacuum pump a second time... more powerful brakes.
If the rear brakes were out of adjustment... more time before no brakes
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/kamloops/ambulance/1432115765?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
4x4 conversion won’t be very easy but that is just a bit over $1k usd
No. They just plug in. Some can be plugged in either way and polarity doesn't matter... others only work one way (if they don't work you have to reverse the polarity)
It can be difficult to determine, but can a newer RABS valve be used? I’m not much better off than you with mine being a 12/‘96.
I’ve got a 2001 M/C and Booster in mine. I had to have custom brake lines made to connect it to the RABS. By ‘01 the M/C has a larger bore. I’m happier now with the...
Hopefully they will be more efficient.
All your tidy wiring reminds me that I still need to wire mine in properly. I focused on modifying the cabinets to make it fit in... and haven’t got to wiring it in properly.
Welcome
I was going to mention LED bulbs but someone beat me to it. G4 LED cob bulbs are excellent on side lights also. The light spread is better than the OE Halogen bulbs. No hot spots and cold... very even light spread.
It’s the moment you hit the brake pedal and ask yourself why it felt like the clutch :eek:
A year after the brakes were redone by a shop... part of reason I prefer to do my own work. Not a brake line in this case... rear cylinders both failed even though they had been ‘replaced’.
Especially if you are replacing them in a year, I’d stick with the rubber ones. Polyurethane doesn’t flex as much... it theoretically reduces unwanted flex, but does so at the cost of reduced articulation. In a heavy van go with what is easiest and most affordable. If it doesn’t last quite as...
Been too busy to do much with the rig.
Problem: The house charger I installed conked out. They would go from 12.7 v to 11.9 v after 24 hours of being on charge.
Solution: Xantrex TRUECHARGE 20+ charger. Found one used that looks like it has been around for a few years, but hasn’t been used...
I could see doing it as a business... but I’ve got too much time and effort invested in my ambo to rent it out... too many big ticket items that could break the bank if renters were rough on it. I’d feel different if it was a cheaper Van... a carovan or astrovan or something that parts were a...
Mine sits a little tail high also... it helps out with the long tail overhang(5'). When it sat level it wasn't hard to drag the rear bumper on the ground when going up steep driveways.
I have a set of similar LED headlights... I do have to say they throw a lot of light. So far I’ve not been overly impressed by the light pattern... but I’d hope Truck-Lite would be better than mine. Ideally I’d like to replace my off-road lights with LED headlights. They’re mounted lower which...
Ford’S design is especially poor. I had to replace mine in the storage compound where it’d been parked before I bought it. The line had failed and needed to be replaced before driving it home 200 miles on the highway.
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