Yeah I figured not too hard to mount track where needed and then just have the supplies on hand to set up. I believe to concept is poles back to the truck for ease of setup usually. But if windier put the poles to the ground and use a couple guide wires to each pole as well.
Is that truck only rear wheel? If 4x4 from the pictures its surprising it kept getting stuck. But we all know how pictures never tell the story either.
Search function there is pretty jacked up. Main reason I can find stuff I remember having seen it in the past and some details to search out. Here's the original concept thread (along with other ideas mixed in):
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/968/
If you scroll down his...
No prob. Our dang solar discussion has me considering tossing two 35watt panels in with my 100watt'er now to max out my charge controller (PWM so as long as the Vmp isn't too far off its really no efficency difference with the other size panels in parallel). Dang you. :p
If the prices are right I'd do it. You get to check out a FWC and also it with a diesel helix under it, that's something lots of us would like the option of.
Right the finishing for glossy smooth would be a bear and not really add anything other than aesthetics. My current thought on the monstaliner I'll to some of the rough fair work and I do still plan on using a 2part epoxy primer to make damn sure everything is sealed and also bonds well but...
Not looking to put something down that I then have to over coat still. Mainly was discussing using thicker paints (or spraying polyurea) type finishes that wouldn't be ultra smooth like you would typically see when using a couple mil thick glossy urethane.
If you're going for high wattage amounts then yeah MPPT is the ticket since you can run higher voltages as mentioned to minimize the voltage drop (and also still squeak out usable voltage in poor light) w/o having to run large gauge wiring. I'm just doing a basic 100watt 12V panel and PWM...
Series the 2 6V and parrell those two banks as mentioned. Then use the diagonal approach for the main +/- connections so the draw/charge has to go the longest route through the banks. That will create the best cell equalization.
Right on, I've got an inline doc wattson meter with powerpole ends that I was planning to use/move around to monitor things as desired. Just wanted to know if you want something cool that monitored individual circuits as part of a distribution panel or such.
Did you pick up your unisolars when...
Does your battery monitor individually monitor things or you just mean as you individually initiate things you can see the results on the monitor? If the former remind me what you're using again?
I got concerned for a second thinking about how hot those unisolar's might get on your composite...
I bought the sequoia for mine, main perk I like about it is the floor mounting plate is only 1/4" or so tall and the leg uses tabs to grab it verse all the other ones on the market that I've seen which use the tall dish thing. Should be much less obtrusive.
I believe all those garage heaters are also requiring a minimum fresh air makeup if you read their directions as well.
Off hand the plat cat and propex are two of the main ones I know with really low draws. The route I'm going is the Atwood 8012, its a front discharge only heater and uses a...
XPS foam can melt with the right amount of heat, that's why I was able to hot wire cut it to make thinner panels for my cabover floor. A large pool of epoxy that overheats I would highly suspect would melt the stuff, it can get HOT. I have never had a single issue on the foam as I'm pouring...
Whatever is your preference, like you said you can customize at will. I tend to favor the nautilus setup for size/simplicity and the pump and faucet usually don't cost all the much more than the typical larger pumps. Another perk is at 1gpm you'll not chew through your water like a larger pump...
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