A basic battery operated one at the hardware store will work as a thermostat, from there you just need to find out the minimum temp as I don't know how many will go quite that low. The one I had put in my hawk went to 40F (maybe a tad lower like 36-38F but definitely not lower). Edit: I just...
I was trying to be generous on the 14.4V (my old truck actually did up around there though, I haven't checked my new one) so as not to take the worst of everything but I agree lots are down lower. I will not argue that you'll get "some" charging off the factory system but it would be pretty...
He mentioned back of the truck, I'm assuming that will be about a 15' run of wiring by the time it gets there from the battery. I'm guessing his cig plug is likely 14ga at best, its not going to provide worthwhile charging, esp. if he's got a bunch of 8ga wire already. Spend $10 on an inline...
Definitely going to be better than the likely 16 or 14 gauge in your cig plug. You'll still need a solenoid or relay to connect/disconnect when the vehicle is on.
Assuming a 2% voltage loss still has a decent enough voltage for charging and you have 15' of distance from your main battery to...
I would tend to disagree, one of two things is going to happen:
1) The small factory wires will cause too much voltage drop to actually charge anything. This is most likely going to be the case.
2) If the wires manage to not drop the voltage too much then you'd likely blow the fuse as there...
Plus from an outsiders view it seems like the kids would probably love having their hideaway. Honestly its one of my favorite parts of the build.
Your fuel comment the other day was haunting me, do you get shachagra out and about locally at all at least? Future plans? That's a hell of a rig...
When you remove the power source it zero's out, or if you make a connection between two of the aux input pins it'll zero out.
I'm not sure if the duo can be set for two different battery types or not. Generally though I think an AGM charge profile will be better than nothing for a flooded...
Just depends on whatelse is in your system, I have a doc mattson meter with powerpole connections I plug inline at various points to take readings. If you have a dual direction ACR or such you can charge the truck as well. So it all depends on what works best for your system.
The $150...
3amps of LED? That's alot for LED, is that accurate?
Best pricing on panels I've been seeing lately is that 65W you're seeing (you could do a couple of those), solarblvd also has a 120W for $174 (little more per watt). Also there is a 120watt version of the W solar for $150 at missourin wind...
For those prices I'd want to have skins on the panels. :p
FYI: Finished glassing the roof joints over the weekend. Need to add in the top of the door frame now that I went away from a full height door before I put the top back on. From there I'll make the door and work on actuator mounts...
I need to order up wire for my camper build, I'm considering ordering up some larger spools of red and black 14ga SXL and just selling off the excess in smaller spools for less than I'm seeing others charging for smaller spools. Places like Del City run $22.6 for 100' of that wire prior to...
West system has some quick use guides and also you can download the entire boat building manual here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/
Heifer boy's box is what you are referencing above: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/56146-New-and-Improved-Camper-Box-Build-Ver-2-0
I use...
Blisten makes 5160s now which are a remote reservoir so you'd just thread the line out the shock tower in your engine bay and mount the reservoir where you can.
If your shocks are a factory availability, I found ajusa (with a coupon code) had the best pricing when I put 5100s on mine. For your rig though even if there were factory options I'd probably think about giving Carli or Thuren a chat on shocks as you have over hanging weight and I presume...
Yup.
With the type of door you're doing that is reminiscent of sonke's design have you considered overlapping hardsides for the popup? Looks like you have a thick cabover section as well... Edit: just read the reply above for the answer. :p
Not sure on the strength exact comparison of ply...
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