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Getting close.

Winch plate welded to the frame horns

Cut off my oddball receiver it was supposed to have been 2” but a 2” hitch wouldn’t fit. Added a true receiver braced the bumper with 3/16” plate and 2” x .25” wall DOM and added recovery points

Comparison

well it drives down the street just fine...LOL I ran bout 15miles last night, just feeling it out, listening for weird noises and vibrations I drove a few miles in 10mph increments all the way up to 80mph mainly to see if the driveshaft would vibrate as some has said it would, I set castor at...

Alignment today, manifold to pipe gaskets, and put the swing out back on it.

LOL the last paragraph on the first post of this thread.

It’s out of the shop. The rear sits about 2” lower than the front unfortunately. The alignment is terrible (I’ll work on it). The front output on the tcase is leaking appears the center part of the seal spins on the shaft. Still have some time to put in.

So I’m going to weld a 5/8” nut to the end of the steering stops that should be just enough to keep it from making contact. But in other news the diff is filled brakes bled I just need to zip tie some stuff up and it’s go time.

Swapped the axle end heims for bushings after getting the axle under it every thing bolted up now my axle sits back an inch guess I get to drop the frame end and spin out the heims an inch. Also this d44 turns way sharp and in fortunately the steering stops are non adjustable. Small details now.

Pulled the axle back out to paint and undercoat every where I knocked it off the frame and covered the new parts too. Re routed the brake lines and welded a couple of brake line tabs on. Got the 4x4 posilok cable put in to engage the the axle disconnect for the dodge axle. Painted the drag link...

So the separation isn’t as good as I hoped it would be. I know radius arms bind it’s just the nature of the beast but I can only get 10” of separation between the driver and passenger side at the hub. Granted that is easily twice as much as the IFS and it’s enough to allow the springs to drop...

Weight on all 4 tires now. The track bar bracket is till only tacked and I have to paint everything so it all has to come back out but I couldn’t resist. The sliders sit dead level with the frame so with only a 0.8 degree difference with the front sitting higher and the fact that the rear tires...

Flexed everything out and cycled the steering nothing rubs anywhere it’s all close though. The picture of the pitman arm and diff cover look super close but there’s 3/16” gap and the pitman arm isn’t tightened all the way up either it will more than likely go up another 3/8” and increase the...

its perfect and not 20 dollars a foot for DOM.... but the way everyone talks OEM steering components are the same strength as pvc so I might as well just use it right... speaking of that I do think I'm going to try and get my local sticker guy to print and cut up some white vinyl with blue...

Mock-up done it’s tight. But it all clears so far.

Worked on the tie rod and drag link. 1” pvc with 1.25” slid over it to mock up the tie rod it’s just about perfect for 1.5” tubing. 1st try I was going for a 10 degree bend and ended up with a 20, the pipe bender bends in two directions so you need to cut the degree you want in half. Second...

Steering arms on the knuckles are a little too thick for the one ton tie rod ends, I had to shave a little bit off. 7/8” hole, tapered insert and Chevy one ton TREs. Under Knuckle so the TREs don’t contact the 16” wheels.

Looking good in black.

Repairs to the axle from the previous owner plus weld in cam bolt block off and weld washers.