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FYI, can no longer add to post as it exceeds 10,000 word limit on new forum

Bolt pattern on the wheels listed below are 6 x 5.5. All wheels are various offsets. Toyota FJCruiser - 17" steel wheel, 106mm bore Toyota Sequoia/Tundra "16 hole" - 16" steel wheel, 106mm bore Toyota Tacoma "Oval hole" - 16" steel wheel, 106mm bore Montero Gen 1/2 & Montero Sport Gen 1/2 - 15"...

For what it's worth, I've been running the SMP INTERMOTOR PC191 Sensor, Crankshaft Position from the sticky for about 15,000 miles with no problem. That said, if in doubt, go OEM.

It's been quite some time since I've updated this thread. I've now owned the Montero for 5 years and 70k miles and it continues to keep on ticking. Over the past weekend I pulled the front axles and had them rebuilt, redid the ball joints, tie rods, brakes and shocks. I also installed a set of...

Slim, try Byron Woodley in Santa Monica for alignment. I had problems at another shop with talk of the front end not being able to be set to spec after a torsion bar crank. Byron Woodley figured it out no problem. I think it ran me $100 bucks a few years back...money well spent.

Slim, try one these rubber eraser wheels —> link

Good eye! Top pic is along the Dalton Highway above the Arctic Circle. The lower pic is from Glacier National Park in Montana. On that trip I was travelling with 2 other guys, three of us total. We rotated two sleeping in the tent and one on a sleeping platform inside the Montero. Everyone...

I have one of these --> link It's super well built, packs thin and fits the width of the Gen 2/2.5 roof perfectly. It has held up to some very high winds, rain, cold and hot temps, and always sleeps very comfortably.

won't fit, center bore is too small

Battery, A/T, and brake lights illuminating is consistent with alternator trouble. Also, if you replace your Mitsubishi alternator with a generic alternator, you can expect the battery, A/T and brake lights to continue to illuminate at low engine RPM, even if the alternator is charging properly.

I think charlieaarons intended to post under the Japanese Heavy Trucks sub-forum: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/forums/72-Japanese-Heavy-Truck-Mitsubishi-and-Isuzu

Originally I had mounted the relays under the hood as can be seen in the picture. Also, I originally ran the power from the battery to the fuse box and power back out into the engine compartment through the same route as pictured. It worked fine. Like you mentioned, run a few extra circuits to...

I would say any high temp grease is sufficient. Valvoline makes a synthetic black grease ("Synpower") I like to use, but it costs a little more. You'll also need the socket spanner tool as mentioned in the parts sticky for setting the bearing pre-load.

Don't forget these if you change the bearings: MITSUBISHI MB526395 Inner Grease Seal, Front Wheel Hub (1 per wheel)

Here's how I added a fuse box and passed the wiring into the passenger compartment from the engine bay --> link Good luck

Glass dimensions should be the same as any Gen 2 or 2.5. US spec Gen 2 trucks have brown tint, while 97-2000 have gray tint. I don't know what color tint the PR trucks came with, just make sure whatever they order and install, matches the color of glass that you already have. Also, looks like...

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/112366-Montero-Alarm-system-removal-Gen-2-5

You can swap driver and passenger side seat backs, and passenger side seat bottom, but not driver side seat bottom if you have the power driver seat.

Good eye snare, part # fixed

Looks like the o-ring that comes with your kit is md030763, so you shouldn't have to order another one. this small o-ring fits around the metal tube that fits into the rear of the water pump housing.