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What are the rivets in the molding for? I'd be worried about condensation in the exterior electrical compartment? What is the reason to have one exterior compartment door swing up and the other down?

There is no magic insulation that is easy to install. Glass beads are mixed with high density (30lb or greater) foam floataion and/or insulation to prevent the foam collaping at depths that are MANY times that of surface pressure.

Testing the brakes would be the place to start. Lift one at a time off the ground spin it then use a pry bar to activate the piston in the surge coupler.

Where have you seen PE foam used in a building application?

Propane tanks can only be monitored with the Tech-Edge or Garnet displays if the tank already has a sender inside the tank. ASME (bolted to the vehicle) tanks have senders. This is the best way to monitor a DOT (portable) tank. https://mopeka.com/

Have you pressed your thumb into the foam in a few spots and checked any damaged areas for water.

I carry 2 of these plus dry chemical. Dry chemical last forever if they are flipped/bounced/shaken 1 or 2 times a year.

Those Element extinquishers have a very limited use. A fire you can get close to and no wind. You'll want to have a back up.

For plastic tanks there are moda type sensors. The wall thickness cannot be over 1/4" if it is a fitting needs to be installed in the top of the tank for a custom made internal sensor https://www.tankedge.com/ https://www.garnetinstruments.com/rv-shop/ Once a hole needs to be drilled this is...

I think there's a fiberglass RV forum that has classifieds. Installing a Propex furnace was one of the best thing I've done...My guess is the Propex is 20% more efficient than a RV furnace which are 60% efficient.....40% of the electricity and propane is wasted. A 95% efficient household...

Apologies just came back from a 4 day trip. If the hydraulic brakes work in the current axle there is no need to replace it. You'll need to disconnect the brake line from the back of the surge coupler and connect the elec/hyd pump, a back up battery (or use the the battery in the trailer) and...

Good choice on the 2016 last year before an upgrade. I won't run a generator within 5' of a RV.....our propane hot water tank will set the CO detector off if the window above it is left open.

We always bought used except for 1 new that was at dealer cost when the oil prices dropped. If the heater is running 2-6V won't give you much time. RV solar prep is the same quality as the staple and caulk construction. Something I'd do myself. Once there's a grey tank to dump I don't see...

I'd take the one with the highest payload. Extending trips you'll want to add batteries/solar/ water. From what I can see of the Trailermaker pics the aluminum frame isn't designed well. The tongue is butt welded to the frame vs. running the A fame underneath to pick up the front cross members...

6061 is one the easiest to fatigue crack.....which will start at the ends of the one sided horizontal welds. I've seen it 100's of times.....just something to keep an eye on.

Bolts hold it on? Nyloc nuts on the clamp bracket is a must A wire though the latch wont' hurt. Welding inside and out is best. Keep an eye on the aluminum it is notorious for cracking

Are you using the BMV battery temp sensor?

I had 20" wheels for our F350 shipped from Texas to Washington. Called a local UPS for a packing shipping quote then had the seller take them to UPS. Once the person at UPS told me he had the rims I sent the seller a payment through Paypal.

Deburring / burnishing isn't gong to help...a dull knife still cuts.

When the bulk voltage was set at 14.7V that would mean the battery temp was 77F?