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I have spacers ready to install, and will be ordering new bushings to include during the job. Thanks SO MUCH for your detailed report on this project!

The Gumtree auto wreckers ad you linked specified that the 4M40 in that '01 was a turbo.

It looks like they touch the underside of the body in this shot but they stand off about half an inch.

No, my truck didn't come with running boards and I've never seen how they're mounted. If you look at the rails in primer you see that they have three mounting points, each with a different shape. I mocked up the three shapes in cardboard to get a good tight fit. Each is comprised of a flat steel...

I live right across the border from British Columbia, where JDM vehicles abound. I talked to a Mitsubishi mechanic up there about importing a 4M41 from Japan and slipping it into my '01. It makes no sense from a cost-benefit perspective. As was stated above, you could buy a couple of nice rigs...

I never took any metal shop classes in school and always wished that I had. A few years ago I took a 1-day welding class at the local tech college, bought a welder on Craigslist, and started practicing. YouTube is a great teacher...I've found that I really enjoy metalwork!

No need to cross the roof. The monocoque body is extremely strong and the location of the OEM cargo rails is more than up to the task. The factory rails are removable, and from there you can install a commercial track or build one as I did. Whatever kind of rack you attach to it, those mounting...

Here ya go....

http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/121506-Sabre-s-Gen-III-Project-cladding-removal-and-trail-armor I'm an overachiever sometimes. It would probably be OK to close the holes with Bondo.

I bought the timing belt, water pump, crank bolt, tensioner and cam seals and had a local independent shop do the job. He also swapped out the switches on the top of the transfer case at the same time (I provided these, too). Total labor was less than $600.

I've thought about putting lights there. Does having it that far back keep the light from spilling onto the hood? I assume you slide the shade closed on the sunroof to keep it out of the cabin.

I used galvy conduit for the crossbars on my rack. I degreased them and then sprayed them with self-etching primer followed by Rustoleum. The finish has held up beautifully.

No, you certainly didn't and I didn't direct my comments to you. His notion of wrapping wires together (even if soldered) sounds extremely naive. Vehicle wiring doesn't have to be complicated, but there are right ways and wrong ways to approach it. We've all seen some horrifying things out...

I would really have a Google at some basic automotive or marine wiring how-to tutorials. You'll be miles ahead if you can avoid some of the common mistakes that well-intentioned folks make. A couple of quick suggestions: 1. Run a heavier gauge wire pair (+ and - both) from the battery to a...

The smaller and lighter the better. The remote fob and that's it.

People insist on believing that louder is more powerful. There aren't many ponies to be gained in these engines, and the airbox resonance is designed to produce the proper intake charge.

That's a great deal on an '01 LTD if it's in decent shape. I know that folks go on and on about the larger engines in the later models, but honestly there's just not that much difference. My '01 is a really great rig, and I have no plans to replace it. Any rig that age will need the usual...

Yeah, it's a one minute job to pry off that dust cap! :agree:

Your projects are, as ever, inspirational. Nicely done! BTW, I may have forgotten to welcome you back to the Mitsu family. Glad to see you in that great rig!

I use Torque and like it a lot, but haven't found that it talks to the transmission at all. I use the "counting the blinking light" method when it throws a code.