https://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/products/cable-shifter-single-np241-billet-style-p-n-np241c
these are pretty highly thought of on the offroad forums...JB has always made good stuff.
If you use blocks or spacers to lift it you are increasing the leverage against the spring (when compared to the same input as it had in stock configuration) it will drive like you have softer springs, and it will definitely make a(negative) difference, particularly at hwy speeds in the wind...
other than the fuse box the shape is the same. The underlayment/insulation cut outs are different for the difference in shifter cable and wire loom configuration/routing. In short, with some work, it can fit. I got it from: https://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=20514&ModelId=750...
what's your intended use? do you want to lift it at all or run larger tires? do you want fulltime AWD or part time 4x4? You're not going to make the truck/suburban 4x4 IFS fit that frame so you are going to be looking at solid axle swap. You would be miles ahead to buy an 03-up AWD van and sell...
I would just live with stopping a pushing the button when I needed too. Disabling ABS is too steep a price to pay and if you put switch in there you'll turn it off and leave/forget about it...ABS is a life saver.
If you are at all thinking of selling it and are concerned about the buyer pool then bulletproof it, take lots of pictures and save every receipt for the work. Bulletproofing is only as good as your ability to prove it was done(correctly).
the difference is the area around the fuse box under the drivers seat, the newer vans have a molded section to accommodate that, it's not a show stopper, you could just cut that section out of your old carpet and cut out an opening on the new one. It's under the seat, no one is ever going to see...
jump in with both feet...anything that is off you can either modify that piece part or just have a new one cut. If anything it would be nice to find a scrap/mock up engine so that you could set that down on your mock up on the garage floor and solve any clearance issues there where it's easy to...
I did the same thing with the Allison install, there was no stock configuration/length that would work so I cut the van/4l85e and truck/allison dipsticks overlapped them a couple inches(mocked up to match the original Allison pan depth) then welded them together, no problems..
my thoughts on moving to 4.10 were based on most folks doing a 4x4 conversion/axle swap are also going to run a bigger tire, in those cases you'd just be restoring the ratio back closer to stock..
10.5 would be the perfect fit for you, GT4 RPO code is 3.73, I'm not bad mouthing the 9.5, if you don't ever want to do anything to it then it's fine, but, from a builders perspective it boxes you in. I agree the 11.5 is too much...you really need to be at 34" tire mininum to consider it...
a 2009/2010 silverado/seirra (6.0 gas) 2500hd with active brake control would be a great donor(10.5) , find one with GT5(4.10 gears) and without G80 (and just install the $400 detroit locker instead).
yes the larger (11.5) differential allowed for the parts to be larger and more robust...even in the 10.5" configuration the factory locker isn't well thought of, most prefer to buy an open differential configuration then just install the Detroit locker as it is effectively a "lunchbox locker"...
luthj hit it right on, you are doing a lot of custom work to an average axle that has limited aftermarket support, in addition the "gov-lock" locker for these axles aren't known for their function/reliability. used rear axles at picknpull yards are frequently less than $250, you can also search...
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