they command a premium for sure....when I was first looking at donor vans I searched for a 190 roadtrek that had a blown engine or trans so I could get a good deal and just pull the body off of it...I never found one.
In general I'd say they are about $1500 overpriced(there are a lot of 12-15yr old E350's out there), but, having the easy in steps for the front door and the extended height barn doors on the side are really nice for getting in/out without stooping. Removing the lift takes all of 45mins...it's...
The truetrac would be the best for snow, that little bit of give you get on turning will keep you from (so easily) spinning the inside tire in snow/ice...the ARB is fully locked or open...no in between, I have them on my jeep commando rockcrawler and absolutely love them but I wouldn't want to...
Just found out I'm the winner of the Lightforce Light give-away...can't say enough good things about Jeremy and Weldtec! Much appreciated...this will all go to good use!!
They are reasonably well built, cabinetry is plywood, not particle board, you can't beat the gm drivetrains, they are bulletproof. Weldtec Designs makes some real nice suspension parts for these so lifting is no problem.
They are typically pretty expensive (compared to just an Express passenger...
may not be exactly what you're looking for but some good info hear on replacing the sealed beam singles: https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/218-vans/947258-new-headlights.html
other than the engine opening being a little larger(more cut out on the passenger side) for the newer 4.8/5.3/6.0 LS engines on the 03 and up (than the 5.7, 5.0 in the older) and the molded area around the body fuse box under the seat I can't imagine it could be a lot of work to make it...
I'm just keeping mine as simple as possible. An isolation/shutoff switch for each bank and a jumper/combiner switch. With dual alternators they will run completely separate unless I want/need to tie them together.
Depends on how elaborate/convenient a system you want. First you need to determine if you need more than one starting/chassis battery, looking at the specs of the new batteries you are buying I'd say just one is plenty for that 98% of the time. If so you could just install a high capacity manual...
My original plan was to build my own and save some money, I paid more for these than I had thought would, but now seeing how much effort Roadtrek put into space management/use I can say I'm glad I didn't add this to my list of time sucker projects; getting both the static seat offset position...
Fuse box clearance and access might be an issue, since my rig is a 2000 it never had a body fuse box under the seat so I just put it where it would clear (custom mount for the airbag module also): even with moving it I had to cut the back out of the fusebox cover in order to get it out and that...
Put some time on the seat bases today, pulled the top plates off and greased the bearings, they have dual tapered bearings, very "trailer spindle-ish", they use a dual offset design, the seats themselves are 5/8" inboard and 1.25" aft of the stock position, then the swivel center is also offset(...
I wouldn't worry about the stabilitrak IRT the column, my bet is the reason GM discontinued the "non-active brake" version is that they found it easier/cheaper to have a single version. All of the wiring that makes stabilitrac work is focused on an optional ABS control module, if you don't have...
I got you confused with the original poster having an 07, I see now that you have a newer van, you would in fact be better off sourcing a low mileage used tilt column and steering wheel with CC controls (you can get the one with stereo controls as well if you're going that far).
here's one on...
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