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gas or diesel?

I just replumbed my old school FMC motorhome with PEX, I used the crimp fittings to make it even cheaper...I won't use anything else now, even on my house.

If you're considering 35's then I'd definitely lean toward a fullsize, the astro's use the small case 700r4/4l60 trans; brakes, steering joints also undersize for 35's, you'd really need to look at a regear to 4.30-4.56 to keep the power band in a happy place. If you stay around 32" you'd...

Most of them are made of thinner material and the quality of the coating is so bad that they rust out even here in the SoCal environment. I'd either go with a good OEM steel wheel (I'm partial to the what grampswrx posted) or get a black powdercoated aluminum wheel if that's the look you want...

Stock take-offs from a newer vehicle is a great option, watching your local craigslist you can usually get a full low mileage set for less than the cost of just new tires.

I certainly wouldn't pay $97 each for cheap aftermarket stamped steel wheels, you could have your stockers powder-coated any finish you like and run the chrome chevy wheel centers for a much nicer look and better quality set up.. if you log mostly hwy miles I'd look at the Cooper Discoverer AT3...

in addition to

Clean the heavy/loose rust scale off the framing with a wire brush then coat it with POR-15, that will convert/encapsulate the rust. Reinstall the panels with a bead of sikaflex at the frame to skin contact and make sure to "wet assemble" your rivets with the same.

I would just buy the same size tube as your hitch and weld / extend it out the end of the bumper. You could buy a scrap of the the next smaller size tube or even make it with angle to make a sleeve to join them...it would be more than strong enough and look like a nice clean install... weld a...

285's on stock offset wheels are going to rub...hard. Getting some wheels with at least another 1" of offset will help. A 1" body lift to go with better wheels would likely solve it altogether.

those things are junk...get a swing out carrier.

new control arms is the way to go, new ball joints and bushings in one shot without having to work you ******** off to get it done..

Same direction I plan to go with mine, have the extra-hightop really lets you elevate the bed platform and produce a large storage area under/behind it.

Fantastic work on the Electrical System layout/description...I bought some of the amazon stuff with your links!(y)

It's rated at 6k, I've lifted my 6800lbs hightop with it, but when I'm done with the duramax/SAS swap it would be too heavy (probably in the 8000lbs range when the interior is done) for it, I'd probably just lift one end or the other from that point on. I'd pass on a local MD van like that...

I'd peg it at about $7500 if it's a western rig with a dry rust free underside... the hightop (if its something you want) is a solid $2000 of the value.. Mine won't fit in my carport either so I bought the MaxxJaxx portable lift and just put a set of anchors outside for it.

Hawk LTS Pads and PowerSlot Cryo-treated rotors are the combo I install on everything...best braking set up I've ever had and the least dust.

The door extensions and 24" bubble top are huge if you are looking to use it for over-nighting/camping, you get door openings where you aren't knocking your head everytime you go in and out and you get 74" of interior head room so as long as you are 6'2" or less you can stand up without...

If you click the "reply" link in the post it will probably work, my Chromebook does the same..

Most of those flat topped ambulance hightops will sag out in the middle without some type of support, I agree the way they did it isn't very elegant/efficient but you'll probably regret just eliminating it if you don't do something to replace it.