What can I say? I’m an idiot. I only do this on off road parks, with people around me to help if needed. I like to test the limits. On actual trips with the family I‘m a lot more conservative. It is good to know how far you can push.
4x4 with factory rear LSD. AT tires, bumper with winch and reinforced bumper frame flanges. For trails and overland trips has been more than enough. On off-road parks looking for the limit, it’s a lot of fun.
- Mine is a Magic Cheff but I think all of these generic minifridges are made at the same place.
- I've been running it with a mod wave 1100W Krieger (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T564EIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with no problem. I "upgraded" to a 1500w pure sine...
I had the same issue and it was a pain in the neck. Worn out bushings. I replaced the whole steering column ($75) at the yard. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/the-rig-runner-a-2010-e350-5-4-diy-coil-conversion.167666/post-2803954
For the use you mention, probably even a factory Limited Sleep Differential (LSD) and taller AT tires will do. With the taller tires you may have to re-gear your differential, that would be a good time to install the LSD. LSD + New Gear would be about $1000 plus labor. LSD can be clutch type...
You can see that I built the 4x4 with MG brackets. I've had the 880s, 880 and finally the 860s. I share your opinion on the 880s. I am not familiar with the Quigley set up, but I understand that from factory they have a very short up travel. This was the problem I had with the 880 springs. I am...
I run 45 psi on 305/65r18. Off road I run 25psi.
Not familiar with the Advanced conversion but I think they are quite decent. If the crossmember was not trimmed properly, the differential maybe hitting it.
They are more capable than you would guess. I have about 5" lift on 34" tires (MG kit) and it doesn't feel tippy. Of course you need to be aware of what you drive, but still I can keep up (mostly be up front) with any traffic.
I spent several days fighting with mine. The cheap Harbor Freight were useless. I ended up grinding the tips of a set of long nose pliers.
Thanks for sharing these links. I am going to need to re-do the U-Joints and this time I may get proper tools.
LOL. I am fighting the same issue with the same arms. Before placing the order chat and ask for confirmation these were 2 arms. Sure enough only one showed up. So far they are pushing the can down the road, but their web site still describe it as a kit and two arms.
Looking good. I used the rear springs from SD (43-1033HD) on my old 2wd E150. I like them and with a shackle flip they may give you the height you need. I did a review here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1372738-new-sdtrucksprings-on-e150-review.html . It may be useful.
What control arms...
I’ve installed in this order: cc880s (too stiff, but I was running higher pressure on my tires), cc880 (good, but I was bottoming the diff against the frame) and the CC860S (2+ extra lift but not too firm). This is in a extended V8 5.4. You can see more details on my build..
The lift will depend on the springs you use. It is hard to determine the lift from stock since those maybe pretty tired. It seems that you are trying not to lift too much. Be careful. I tried that and ended with the differential hitting the crossmember. Yes, the corssmember was cut already. I...
Labor day weekend run at Barnwell Mountain Recreational Area. I probably pushed the van where we had no business but it was fun. Sometimes you have to pay to play. This time was a side glass. On the Gladiator picture you can see the trench we went into. Add a hairpin turn and you can imagine how...
I like it. Seems well executed. I've seen pictures of the back and the tail lights are the main thing off (old stile v. almost futuristic in the Volvo.
I've toyed with the idea of doing something similar using a cargo Chevy Express or an Astro to do a high roof on my E350.
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