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I thought about that right after I typed it, LOL. Seem to remember the LP6 being 7" and BIG! Will look at the XL-80. THANKS!

Thanks. I hope it holds up. I did scratch a part putting it together, errant tool :-( it was an easy fix. Like a few wise people have said before, replacement parts are reasonably priced so if down the road it starts to look bad it will get changed out. ONWARD!

I did look at your thread and video again and I gave it some serious thought. I was kind of on a roll and had the paint anyway. I still did not like the large chrome strip. I can't sell these now. Oh well! Live and learn! At least I can sell the bumper! Bumper lights next! It looks naked...

Progress. Before & After. MUCH BETTER. If the paint finish does not hold up I can always order the black replacement parts. Fingers crossed! Interior lighting and fridge box. Fresh water tanks showed up this last week and shower pan on the way. Will work on the forward camera...

I did not like the way the large chrome looked on the light. The interior chrome and brushed look I was ok with. Trying to save at least a few $$ during the build. If I hate it later I can change easily enough. Cheers!!

Test complete. A longer FAKRA cable works. I came up with an idea for the camera angle gauge utilizing an exterior and interior display, dry erase or blue tape, combined. That SHOULD help me set the angle. Think colored round target and measured distance from a set point on the truck...

I purchased a new FAKRA cable for the rear cargo camera relocation idea. Tested it and it worked. Do you think we could do the same for the front? Purchase a bit longer cable? I will look at it when I get home. I have the long FAKRA cable on the shelf. I will test it. Will post results...

Will do. I REALLY would like the 360 system to work. I will give it some time. If I have to machine a custom housing to change the camera mounting location, that is not out of the question. I can work on it when I am doing the rear camera mounts. Will keep you posted. CHEERS!!

Yes. One of the reasons I wanted to keep the original grill, plus I like the look :)

A picture is worth a 1000 words! All hand sanded with Scotchbrite....FUN! Will put it back together today. Protip...Grill parts are a PITA to remove. Just have to work on the headlight chrome "fix". I know what you did....might go the replacement route. Spend the money on the good stuff...

How things change when you are building. Overcome and adapt! Changed my mind on a few things....go figure :cool: A short drive, you must be close :-). I am going to use the flush style spin weld fittings 1/2" or 3/4" side, low as possible. 2 tanks into one, with a winterize drain and pump...

When your internet search comes up not to your liking.....get to work. Takes the edge off :-) I am going to order some black replacement parts, NOT a huge chrome fan. CHEERS!!

Thank you for looking. It could be the difference between the 13.5 and 9.5. Now there is 9.5 pics out there, the way the instructions say. I did use the measurement for the wood from the good side of the plug carved out, just to make sure. I felt kind of square last night.......the 32oz...

Fixed. Tomorrow we find out if the thick roof kit is needed. The mistake I made was not putting enough point pressure on the TC plug to test compression, and then not following the instructions. I used 3/4" furniture grade plywood ripped to the exact thickness of the void after foam removal...

Never be afraid to admit a mistake. Well so much for that bright idea! I decided to run a 1/4" bolt point load test on the plug. Torqued to 6 FT Lb and see if the plug I cut out from the roof compresses. At 4 FT LB, over 1/8" compression. Remove AC plenum, route out foam and begin the...

Now you tell me! LOL I did not use wood. I figured the wood instructions were for a "standard" RV roof. I tried to compress the plug I cut out of the roof, oh heck no! VERY LITTLE compression. I was able to get the AC installed without the thick roof kit. They said 3 3/8" or more of roof...

Solar panel test fit! My math was correct, just barely. 1" between the center panels, hence the need for custom mounts. 2.5" X 2.5" 6061 3/16" thick structural aluminum angle. Countersunk to accept the riv-nut head so the mount fits tight against the panel. All stainless steel mounting...

I am not gluing the 8020 directly to the walls. I am fabricating some 1.25" X 2.5" 6061 structural angle"mounts". SQ inch contact patch is the point. Probably 6 inches long each. NO point loads. I will bolt them to the 8020 and glue them to the TC box. No turning back now! CHEERS!!

I opted for the 30 series. Ordered a few sample sizes from Amazon and then made my order with 8020. Shipping is a bit on the high side but the product looks GREAT. I did purchase some of the hardware from both 8020 and Amazon. I am fabricating my 8020 to box mounts and some various 8020...

Excellent point taken :-) We can not wait to venture Beyond The Black Stump, or at least try too.......yes I Duck Duck go'd it :-). One very important thing I hope most builders know is never build something you can not easily service or repair. And NOT in the shop, out in the field...