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I would pick the panels which allow you to fit the maximum amount of solar, within reason at least. Its possible to use two different panel sizes/types. You may need more than one solar controller anyways. Or if you go with more than one panel per string, you would just make the strings...

Driveshaft dropped off with a "good-ol-boy" cross town. Just a guy with a 4,000sq/ft pole barn and shafts lying everywhere. It should be done "2 or 3 days" Which basically means, eventually... Started flaring brake lines. I think I am going to make a 2" stub line to adapt from the bubble...

Not my first choice either. Tig would be best.

Yeah no worries, it was hard enough for me, and I had the axle upside down... Its hard to get a consistent pattern on used gears. A friend gave me a tip, to use the brakes to load the pinion torque to the 40 ft-lb range. Of course I don't have the brakes on currently... I loaded the ring...

The size of system you are building may justify paying a professional to help you flesh out the design, and choose components. There may be good reasons to go with a 24V system. You may need multiple parallel controllers and inverters, etc. This is moving from the typical small system seen in...

Made some progress, but had some other tasks to attend to. Remaining items are brake lines, parking brake cable, and swapping the driveshaft U joint.

My interpretation is a smaller shim. Going deeper would push the drive off the toe. Otherwise I could increase the backlash 5 thousandths.

Primed and painted. Still need to touch up a few spots, but no point in doing that until its installed. I am guaranteed to bang it up getting it positioned. I really like the U-Pol epoxy primer. Great opacity and coverage, fast recoat, good spraying and flow. Hopefully the corrosion...

I don't know of any offhand, especially that would be open currently. I was thinking about a nice slow cruise to someplace sparsely populated. It would be enjoyable to be on the road again for a bit.

Finally got the gears in. Paint is going to have to wait till tomorrow. To much bending over already... Looks like the sprinters parking brake cables are a pretty close match for the GM housings. Since GM has them exiting rearwards, I am not sure if the MB ones will be long enough though...

I typically see about 75% of rated at noon on a hot day. My panels are flat mounted, so they don't get much convective cooling. The panels will make 75% for a couple hours, then taper on each side of that. Panels do loose capacity over time. A few percent over the first 2 years, then maybe...

A panels rated output is actually under standard test conditions. The panel is not hot, the light is direct on, and there are no wiring or controller losses, and there is not dust/dirt on the panel. Typically 80% of rated when hot is a good output. Incidence angle matters a lot. Best option...

I am not sure if these gears are hobbed or milled. The tooth height does change a bit from heel to toe, so maybe they are milled? On milled gears the contact surface axis is different, so changing backlash will change the patterns depth. I dropped the backlash to 0.006" and the pattern was...

Here is the coast side outlined. Its a bit faint at the root, but it looks deep? Here is the drive side. This Dana chart shows this pattern as Drive: Root Toe Contact, Coast: Root Heel Contact. It indicates that the shim needs to be thinner...

Anyone got feedback on this mesh pattern? My first though is its a bit deep, do maybe go down 3-5 thousands? Wanted to get a second opinion, as its a pain to pull the diff with the fragile copper air line.

That would be my first suggestion. HDPE cutting board, painted wood, etc.

Looks pretty good I think. Decided on 1.5 degrees below the TCase. That should put it within 1 degree when loaded. The sway bar didn't want to fit up, it was hitting the cover. Eventually figured out I had it on upside down (at least I think I did). My angle finders CCW rotation...

Chipping away. Hope to get the brackets tacked on today. Paint tomorrow, fit up by friday? Still have E brake and brake line adapting to deal with as well.

Looking good. My only suggestion is that you may want to support that disconnect which is hanging off the terminal fuse. I have seen those fuses fail from vibration when there is a good moment arm attached.

Good ideas all around. I am hopeful I can measure the pinion loaded, and weld it in one shot. But who knows how that will shake out. I have factory rubber stops. They actually compress 1.3" from rest, but I have been looking at what other options might fit the budget.