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Adding 5-6” to those legs would be simple, except that they will likely interfere with each other when folded.

Working on building some currently (but very slowly) 72x30x36. 3/4” Steel tube hoop with expanded metal top and steel tube legs. I like the strap idea, as one of my hang ups so far has been figuring out how to keep the legs from overextending without a machine shop to do the work. At a tube...

I guess I’m a little confused. From your picture it is hard to tell... Were your crossbars the square steel tube, and the aluminum tent tracks bolted to those? Or were the tent tracks bolted directly to the brackets?

The weight of the truck shouldn’t matter, only the input torque and shaft rpm ratings of the box. I don’t know where to find that info. Maybe an old New Process spec sheet or catalog?

You’ll have fun seeing all the different systems people have built up. Don’t be surprised if you go through 3-4 of your own before you settle in on something, especially if you are building your own.

Your question is too broad to answer easily. How to you plan to use it? Jeeps evolve with you. Will you have a fridge? Other power needs? Keep or ditch the back seats? Have dogs? Sleep inside? Camp in bear country? Then, what to make it out of? Buy or build? Wood? Steel? 80/20? Fabric...

Passing through 100k on my 2014 JKUR. Hasn’t been an experience in reliability but has basically met expectations for a lifted, overloaded, on and off road rig. Brakes all around x2, ABS control module failed giving almost no brakes anywhere, oil cooler x2, several batteries, tie rod ends...

So I can set it up at the curb in front of my house without blocking traffic or parking “backwards” on the street.

You should be able to loosen the hinge to floor bolts, push it together, and re-tighten, but that photo seems to be well within the limits of what I have expected and run on several Tepui tents. I wouldn’t overthink it.

I tried to remove the fly from one of my Tepui tents a few years ago and was going to make 2-piece poles that could be strapped to the floor next to the ladder. After breaking a couple of pieces of aluminum in my tube bender, I just gave up and kept the fly on all the time. It could be done...

I’ve used similar saws before. For packability and occasional use it can’t be beat. At that price it is probably a great value. In my Jeep I just carry an 18” limb pruning saw that almost never gets used... similar price point, so it would be a toss up.

To the OP, I understand your desire for a manual trans, I’ve even swapped them into quite a few trucks and a car... not always easy. However, you will see big power derating to keep them alive, possibly losing many of the modern diesel benefits. in over 120k miles of driving my 6.0 F250 I...

I’m reasonably certain that the only VW TDI going into a full ton work truck will be riding in the back on a trip to the junkyard.

Hey all: I’m suffering from a possible case of cranial-rectal-insertion. Maybe you can help me out? About a year ago I took apart a 99 Suburban with a 5.7 Vortec. Now I’m trying to get it back on the road and can’t seem to properly place the wiring harness brackets that appear to bolt to the...

I had a surprising amount of interest in this, with several people having contacted me already. In short: thank you. The 1963 Series IIA is gone. Sold for parts to a user that towed it to the Los Angeles area. That was the cheap one, as it didn’t run and was BADLY corroded on the chassis...

I’ve done them by myself with the aid of ramps, but as noted above, the risk of body damage is really high. Much better with 2 or more people. My reality was that once I positioned the tent, there wasn’t any point in removing it, so it would ride there 2-3 years at a stretch. Camping was...

Depending on the bolt location/design the bolt heads may interfere with easily sliding cargo back and forth. If you bolt down into the trailer frame, you may need a thick frame or some way to manage captures nuts to ensure that the bolts have enough to grab. Vibration of the bolts could be an...

This is great advice. And I’m guilty of being on the other side of it. I’m not sure I could program my dual band ham right now to hit a repeater other than the 2 or 3 local ones I already set up. There are so many complex multi-function buttons and incomplete menus that it is easy to forget...

You can get the stick style tire gauges that go up into the 120-130 range. They are common at truck stops on freeways. I had a similar problem when I had an F250 and would run it loaded. Most of those stick gauges have a little nub on the back to depress the valve stem. It doesn’t take long...

One could certainly work from the floor and calculate perpendicularly... not every floor is flat and not everything squares or calculates easily. If you know that the reference surfaces (usually floor or wheel wells) are level, then using a level for plumb and level is quick and easy.