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Meaning you can use one side of the tent with the awning and the other without it. Seems pretty smart, to me. A.

Do you happen to have a DC clamp meter? Maybe the 3A shown is solar input?

What map apps do you use on the Surface?

Anyone notice that Chris Cordes wrote about it? https://expeditionportal.com/garmins-overlander-gps-can-replace-all-of-your-off-road-apps/

I'm the OP. The second Trasharoo has died. :oops: I didn't even leave it on the truck all winter! A.

Though I would happily take a charger in that form factor, as long as it was high output! A.

I'm looking for the same. A.

M

Yeah, you need a larger conductor from the tow vehicle to the trailer, if you want to have meaningful charging. I am working on this, myself. Aussies often have a dedicated Anderson SB50 connector for this purpose. The cheap/fast/acceptable approach is to simply use jumper cables from the tow...

I'll add that I did break a gasket retainer, once. :) A.

Both types always leaked without some extra muscle, for me. But once snug they never leak. So YMMV.

The Scepter MWCs are airtight, let alone watertight, when properly tightened. As with the MFCs, you end up needing a weird tool.

For a completely different option, I just installed a bladder between the second row and my drawer system/cargo barrier: http://www.fleximake.com.au/Home/Product?Id=f6de3648-db57-4369-9033-f6240f6bff35 A.

I started this thread, last summer, if you hadn't seen those options: Swing-Out Trash Bags A.

Went with the full ARB setup in my 80, replacing a homemade setup: Really like the system, so far. A.

That makes sense. Though the original negative wire is quite short, so the resistance should still be minimal. I do think I'll redo that, however. A.

Great advice. I’ve got quite a lot in my 80, but I should replace a couple of them. A.

What’s the reasoning?

Yes. I've always assumed that the frame is a zero resistance conductor when I use it for the negative return. What do others say?

Looks nice but is only 18W, insufficient for most laptops. A.