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3m also makes an outdoor rated double sided tape. Would recommend that. Other stuff will fall apart in UV and then you loose that screen going down the road. Not too cool for the person behind you. still though for that reason I would NOT trust tape. Forces from wind while driving far exceed...

Useless info. I love my little "prototype" Ready welder". It's probably 35yrs old? Came out before ReadyWelder became a product. Has off the shelf 240v innards. Wire feed motor and control is powered by chucking up a variable speed drill to a post on the back end of it. I used a light...

how many watts total did you put up there?

Thinking on using a compressor type chiller (for aquariums) that also has to be settled before use..... what found finally was that about 13 degree off kilter is max it can handle before it must be settled again. Would not be surprised if yours is not very similar. That means a day of no use...

Good points... thanks for reminder to plumb the heat away. if one is using peltier (thermo electric) like the blanket it is not to hard to duct that outside... guess honestly not to hard to duct it out if one is using a compressor unit either just got to mount things in the right places to make...

make the whole bag reversible. If one changes the top hinge side..... just turn the bag inside out and whala..

this hot water is used to heat the camper. AKA radiant heat. Especially appealing for those who want to cary just one fuel type or want to scavenge engine heat for camper heat as well.

Plug into what? Nearby bush? :) Assume you mean your own campers battery system. I've not done the math .. but yea sounds like too much draw and wear on the system. Now if you have a genny...... hmmmm..... good point. Course getting genny started in cold weather is another issue too.

good points about mixing metal types causing issues. Also could see the engine water pump having to work harder to move the coolant thru the camper area as well. Keep in mind as well.... some engine heaters are said to NOT be run when the engine is running unless they are a separate circuit...

question is how to you keep the "slider" from rattling to death. that is a shiat load of vibration it has got to deal with. And the latch better be dammmn good to hold it in so you don't loose it on a side hill or god forbid an accident.

just be aware that since these are made for horse stalls.. they may not hold up to oil and fuel ... as well as heat. For oil resistant vibration dampening mounts..... you can get them from McMaster Carr.

Im confused as well.

with that set up (diesel or LP coolant heater / engine heated coolant ) keep in mind hydronic radiator and hoses etc. ... must be compatible with the type of coolant your engine requires.

ok.... did more silicon work today.... see if it stops it this time. Started with cutting / applying Flex Seal strips around one of the plates the PO added to replace the lights... but was taking too long to do just one of the covers the way I was doing it. Thus resorted back to a quick...

Charlie knows his stuff. Stazz does have a history of hit or miss on their products..... but then again look at dates of discussions on their products... if recall right...... lot of misses in their past but not so much so in the present... but do not quote me.

this might help you figure out what you have, how to remove and deter from coming back https://www.buzzaboutbees.net/wasp-nests.html

Frustrated... still leaking.

Put moth balls in the area? or spray with Peppermint as suggested in article below. . Is this the wasp that make little mud homes (mud daubers) https://dengarden.com/pest-control/What-are-Mud-Dauber-Wasps-and-Should-You-Get-Rid-of-Them