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Dieselized KLR650. Range approx 550 miles? at approx 90-100mpg

Thanks... Lights not an issue... air cleaner is behind the cab. Indoor is not an option nor is a garage.

I may have confused you. It is my truck whose cab must be able to be tilted... It is a cab forward truck. To access engine etc you have to tilt the cab. Thus the whole carrier would need to be able to be tilted as well... or removed..... and must need to be able to do this in the field on...

Like the door split idea. Have also considered that. My truck probably could care less about weight to steer lol. (see Avatar) Other Pro's . Lights are in bumper... so headlights may not be an issue..... easily solved if so. . ground clearance less affected with carrier in front. In...

Thanks. Above Looks pretty awesome though I do see some issues. There are and will be times you need to remove carrier..... NOT on pavement and not on level ground.... a few minor changes can really help this situation. Also rear doors..... if one lowers it..... then un pin the massive post...

Front Motorcycle rack thoughts.. https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/front-motorcycle-rack.194346/

considering front rack but not sure..... concerns... my truck is cab over.... and get feeling it is already front heavy.. (lmtv). Also have to accommodate for cab tilt. benefits..... got two awesome rear doors on my camper box (ambulance box) and having a second exit for emergencies is a...

updates??? it's been almost a year now

May be wrong but looks like that is not the permanent location. Appears it is sitting on a basket with 2" receiver tube hitch so it can be removed. Thus could be when in transport it might actually be stored inside that tongue box or elsewhere. Rain cover for when in use would still be smart...

really... my rear end (the truck.. not "me") is twice the size of yours and there is zero movement there. If there was I would be sick worried cause I know the resulting vibrations will take out my 20grand transmission (been there done that. Took year of digging to get reasonable cost used...

Why not the Monsta on both cab and box?

saves about $1.00 in manufacturing cost is probably the overall reason (less wire)

is this wet after you painted her or is Monsta dimpled like a truck bed stuff? Also planing desert sand.. but then other camo colors in broad curvy/swooping lines like you would see on most of today's RV's

or better yet carry your springs and parts. that way if air compressor fails... or major leak somewhere.... you can reinstall springs. As to shifting jack stands... I always weld mine to a used disk brake caliper.

Is that a short..... a bird dropping ahhhh? fried beetle orr?

One thing not mentioned yet.... cause I've never heard anyone do it (I plan to... wo hoooo I'll be the first) Get a grid tie inverter. Why waste all those solar panels when the rig sits at home. Am going with 1000w on my rig (solid awning will have another whole array on it as will roof...

Its a gamble...... but if bet if you womanize the camper.. make interior massively nicer. sand and varnish that nice wood with standard nice cabinets instead of tool boxes. Is it insulated? Change to a rear insulated tilt down ramp or swing open instead of roll up. A nicer finished tuff...

Look up AutoEC rocker panels. You can snap them together in various arrangements..... they have all kinds of gizmo's to snap it all nicely together with and lock them tight. You can get them at autoparts stores too. More than one company makes them like this...

sounds like a used old electric meat knife to carve it down first would be ton faster. Or a heated wire running just long enough to slice down width across one stud to another or maybe even a wire saw for same purpose. Heat maybe not needed?

very happy for you...... was it title for the van.... if so how in the hell did they get it titled?