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You probably don't need on-the-go programming. Just set it and forget it, once you figure out what works for your vehicle. Makes life a lot simpler.

Pretty much the same experience I had with a Diablo Predator for my Dodge Hemi. Bought it new, couldn't get the thing to update, kept timing out and crashing during the update. Wouldn't load onto the truck without the update. POS. Put it away so that I could deal with it later, and that was...

A 4" lift will kill gas mileage at highway speeds, regardless of what tire you are running.

Steel is cheaper, simpler, and heavier. If you don't have access to a spool gun or experience with aluminum, stick with steel. I still like the i-beam idea to increase resistance to vertical deflection if you want bridging ladders. For a given net weight of steel, orienting the steel...

The cost of regearing will buy a lot of gas. Everything is a tradeoff. Do you want ground clearance? Do you want flotation? Do you want heavy load capacity? Do you want M/Ts, or will A/Ts work for you? Do you want bullet-proof sidewalls? Do you need better effective torque at the low end...

My experience with Odyssey Grp 34s is that they are not nearly as sensitive to charging voltage and amperage as are their Grp 31s. The 31s are a real pain in the *** to charge and maintain, but the 34s behave, for the most part, just like Optimas. I have had a bunch of all of them.

I wouldn't buy that unit for jumping vehicles. It is only 8000mah and the newer units are 12000mah and up. These have become commodity items and capacities are increasing rapidly. I have several units from a couple of different manufacturers, and they are pretty good about starting vehicles...

I carry MaxTrax on my main truck now, because last fall I got myself seriously stuck and kicked myself hard for not having them. Would have been a long night in the desert if I hadn't found another truck to use as a winch anchor. I'd carry a set of the Mr. Emergency Traction Tracks in my other...

Those guys are only about 20 miles from me, so I'm pretty sure I called them when I was looking. Part of the problem is that I have no parts list, no part numbers, and nothing they can reference. It's just a matter of tearing the jack down and taking the bad parts into the shop and digging...

May be a great winch, maybe not. If it fails while still fairly newish, Costco is good about returns. The problem will likely come down the road, if something breaks when it is a few years old. It's from China, and the likelihood of finding parts in five years may be pretty slim. I have a...

I'd suggest forgetting the unistrut and looking for some i-beam material. If you can find a profile that is deep and narrow (high web, narrow flange), that will maximize the deflective strength. It compromises lateral deflection, but that is usually not an issue in a bridging situation. The...

FWIW, my 2150 is about the same as yours, except that mine is new (installed in July, I think). Odyssey told me that my 270 amp alternator should be fine for blowing off the sulfation, and I drove the truck almost 3000 miles in September. It's been mostly parked since about 9/20, and on 9/30 I...

Nerf steps are not sliders, but they usually work just fine as nerf steps. The problem with the current SmittyBilt stuff is that it is crap, with thin walls, sloppy welds, and horrible finish. Most of it seems to be made in China. I have one set of Smitty nerfs that have been on a truck since...

If the aluminum panels are all flat (no bending of the foam board required), you might skip the glue and use strips of mounting tape. See the VHB/UHB tape discussion from a couple of weeks ago.

A lot of the current SmityBilt stuff is junk.

ABS will be cheaper, it's already black, and it doesn't degrade like PVC with sun exposure. Downside is that you don't have the variety of fittings that are available for PVC, but if you keep it simple that is not a problem. On the roof rack, you can probably skip the pump and use gravity feed...

This is what the Delphi 280 connector looks like. They come in at least three sizes, depending on wire gauge you are using. There are also rubber boots that slip over the back of the connector.

That's the one I have been talking about, 15303-x. The suffix denotes the specific version. I just got two of them but have not wired them yet because they turned out to be be just a bit bigger than I had anticipated and I can't fit two of them side-by-side in the spot I had planned.

Yes, you need to order the correct relays and connectors. The distributor tells me that you can use only Delphi 280 or the AMP clone of the Delphi 280 for your wire terminations. Those connectors use a "special" crimper that none of the tool suppliers or GM dealers seem to know anything about...

The big one. http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-142618731068637/eb-36.pdf