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That is not a lot of dirt. For what you are doing the stock filter is fine as is. Your overthinking it. I have seen those plugged solid with about 10#'s of silt. They will hold way more dirt than what yours had in it.

I'm cheap and I have a tap. All the Raptor shocks I rebuild just get taped. That's like an extra 13$ a shock in my pocket LOL. So, I have no idea how it would work.

Drill and tap 1/8" NPT https://www.kartek.com/parts/fox-shocks-replacement-schrader-air-valve-stem-for-older-fox-shocks-that-use-18-npt.html

A hydro bump will do way more than a foam bump. You can use it to band-aid a poor spring rate. Set-up with the proper oil level, it's spring rate can go from almost zero extended to almost solid at bump.

5WT oils vary greatly, best to stick with the same brand unless you are rebuilding all the shocks. A small sampling of shock oils and their relative viscosity. http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Suspension_Fluid A good choice for seals. http://www.shockseals.com/ Also...

Eventually you will come to the realization that hydraulic bumpstops are in your future.

^^^^ This.

Awesome! Good to see you making progress.

Unfortunately, the T-case from an F150 is drivers side drop so no swapping there. With a 4.696 1st gear and a .636 overdrive, with some decent diff gears low range may not be needed. Rock crawling in a van just seems like a bad idea. With 33" tires and 5.0 gears it would do about 25MPH at...

Ahhhhhh, my SW skills are more than a little rusty. Quick google cheat shows you can convert them to sheet metal parts pretty easy and joining them isn't much harder. The K factor .447 A good shop will know if you have screwed the pooch on anything and call you about it. When My buddy Craig...

Where are you located? The sheetmetal shop I used in SoCal would laser cut parts and break them for a pretty reasonable price. http://rimetal.com/ They do a LOT of parts for a lot of off-road shops in the SoCal area. Getting a knock down kit from them is pretty easy. Having a few bends in...

I tried to help that guy, he did not want to listen. He was doing just about everything wrong then tried to blame it on the shocks.

The closer you can get to zero preload, the better off you will be. Shock tower brace is an excellent idea. Are there any parts like the "frame rails", shock towers or the cross members that you could bend and combine 2 parts? It would cut down on assembly time quite a bit.

Yes. They make weld on threaded bungs with pinch bolts. These would be much less likely to strip out.

Those tie-rods look like tubing with hiem adapters welded on hence the jam nuts and not pinch collars. If the tie-rod is striped out you may be boned. Or have a new one welded up.

The newer arms do not have replaceable BJ's. The main reason aftermarket arms are so popular. I believe the taper is the same though.

If you went King's (bro), they have an over the body top cap which reduces the body length by an inch or so. You can also get a longer shaft with a welded eyelet that will clear the axle. If your going custom on the shocks, Kings take about half the time to get over Fox's. I believe JD fab...

99.9% of those are not coilovers either.

What the vuck? Why the shorter pedals? Difference between a truck and van? Will that screw up the leverage ratio? Should I go back a reread the thread instead of asking a bunch of stupid questions?

You would not regret going to a 2.5 in the long run. You may however regret sticking with the 2.0.