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Toyotas have boxed welded frames which are not heat treated. Ford's have C section heat treated frames. Do not weld on the Ford frame unless you want a whole bunch of cracks. Bolt it on with 3 mounting points. 2 by the cab and one in the center in the rear to deal with the frame flex.

What transfer case?

Nice shock tower! Might want to put clearance hole for the bolt through the outer webs. If the bolt gets stuck it can be a pain to get out without them.

Ackerman is good for driving around the parking lot. You will be fine with what you have.

You would be much better off moving the lower shock mount out and making a new shock tower to fit a longer shock. Your motion ratio is pretty close to 2-1. This will be really hard on the shock. Also with springs that heavy you will run into coil bind issues. 2.0's witth that much load on them...

The angled lower mounts also screw with your anti-dive numbers. I had forgotten about them not being parallel till I read this. Now I remember my buddy cussing at his 1500 when he was building the arms for it LOL. He ended up redoing the rear mounts to match the fronts.

https://www.visionxusa.com/shop/4-5-light-cannon/

Also something to consider, camber gain/loss can also be used to minimize wheel scrub due to track width change. Wheels scrub is a lot worse for handling then anything camber gain will do.

Why would camber gain affect braking performance? Castor gain/anti-dive I can see. Camber gain is good for cornering. Back to the front diff, I had a Tru-trac in My old Bronco, Loved that thing. I tried all verity's of diff's in that thing and it was the best all around.

Unless you have a spool in that diff you need to divide that by 2. Even that will be generous. Doing FEA on suspension mounts will just give you some interesting pictures. Your loadings will come from so many directions that it is damn near impossible to get an accurate result.

Air down, be gentle with the gas and brake pedals, stop facing downhill. For lockers, Tru-trac's are a really good choice for this. You will not really notice they are there, they just work.

Still talking out your ******. I build everything myself as I can't afford to pay anyone else. It was a 22 year old Ford ranger in class 7S. There were 4 entry's, we were the only finisher in our class. It was and still is street legal. Working windows and heater are nice in Baja in the middle of...

You will love that WW2. I kept the EBV as I'm using it as an exhaust brake. If I upgrade to 05+ axles with the bigger brakes I may consider taking it off but for now I need it. Power is not my issue, stopping kinda is.

I feel your pain LOL. Propane heater in my shop is set to high, otherwise I would get nothing done in the winter. My stepvan conversion won't fit in the shop and will just have to wait for warmer weather. You can usually gain more travel on bump than you can with droop. The limiting factor is...

Bilstien has an extruded aluminum body by-pass shock. They have ridges in them, they cool much better than a steel can. Unfortunantly, they don't really support off-road stuff anymore as it is not a money maker.

I have actually won the Baja 1000 in a truck that i built. You? That was a direct quote from Sal. He may have said dumb instead of stupid though.

Mint 400 LOL, Put on by Bladeing In The Desert? And no, the Duramax chase trucks run stock suspension other than a 3" king and tie-rods.

That's funny, our chase trucks pop them like pez candy. First thing we do is replace the TRE's with hiem joints before they head south. But hey, Obviously with your 1 truck you have vastly more experience than company's that build 50 trucks a year being used in the harshest conditions. I'm done.

Your hose volume has to be less than the shaft displacement or a resi will do very little for heat transfer. The Bilstien 5160's resi's are right on the shock body so they do offer some extra heat shedding ability. If you have a 12" long resi hose on a 10" shock, it ain't going to do much...