Nice Job!
On the 'improved' twin leg design where the legs are buried, make sure they have some taper on the buried section to help with the transition. If the line is a hard full diameter transition it can create a weak point.
Thanks for the mention. Here is the teaser pic from IG and FB.
I will be doing other colors as demand allows. I have to get them manufactured in large batches to get the cost down to a reasonable level.
The price is hovering in the 40-50 range currently including shipping on a single item...
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Do you think they let people tow trailers around on highways at 80mph on a 5K rated ball with no safety margin?
If I get some time I will throw this into Solidworks and run an FEA simulation on it to see generally what number we are looking at. My guess would be that there is a similar...
Most of the hooks from Jeep are ok. I would prefer if they where a closed system. If possible I like to use a bridle to get both hooks if there is any real force that will happen.
I do find it comical that some people will freak out about pulling on a trailer ball that has a very large stem...
Honestly, that is probably better than most aftermarket options. The OEM likely ran it through FEA, testing, and then derated it a LOT to CYA.
I would make a bridle to allow using both hooks with a shallow vector angle to spread the load out as much as possible.
I'm guessing you would mess up...
As long as the bumper is smooth and well mounted, I don't see a problem with it. I actually prefer it in a lot of ways.
I use a soft shackle to go around square and round tube bumpers and chassis parts all the time. That is one of the reasons I like making my soft shackles longer than most on...
Filling the tire with a coreless cap based system seems problematic to me.
Jantz4x4 has a similar system with modded valve stem extensions that works pretty well. You can fill right trough the extension.
He drills holes in the cap portion to let out the air.
Fair enough. I see a lot of sketchy stuff, I feel bad taking pictures of it.....but some of it just makes me shiver.
I find myself running a bridle to multiple points to spread the load out as much as practical.
Those wheels are some of the worst I have had for stem location, but in general, I don't want a longer stem that is more exposed to damage on the trail. I find the longer units to be less durable when they do get caught by something as minor as bending them over. Metal stems have been the worst...
Hooks really aren't the best solution in my opinion, I would much rather have a closed system.
I don't really think a reciever hitch is a bad idea, it is probably better engineered than most aftermarket systems on the market.
Finding someone you trust more than an OEM to design and...
I am a bit old fashion, I use a core tool to remove the core. This is basically as fast as you can get in my opinion. You can even drill some stems out a bit to get even more flow. I need a long stem tool to get to some of the valve stems on beadlock rims. The currie/arb units are just too much...
Yes, some tow balls could be more dangerous than others, but overall I think this issue is just pointing the blame at a single object in a very complex dangerous system.
I would however recommend avoiding it whenever possible.
I completely agree on the slipping off comment, I would much rather...
So only certain balls are dangerous? I think you are going in circles a bit.
At some point, all vehicle recovery is dangerous. Honestly, I would trust a trailer ball, in an off the shelf stinger, in a mass produced or oem hitch as much as some of the aftermarket industry recovery points on the...
It's not about what happens when backing it down your driveway, it is about what can go wrong when you get into an accident at 80mph. The safety chains might catch it if you have issues, but they might not as they are typically connected to thin flimsy brackets with hooks or even snap links.
I...
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